Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive done head light rewiring on some vehicals before and ive found running all new wires (possitive and negative) makes an improvement on the lights. there is a way of having both lights working while on high. this is the way im going to be setting my r33 when i get time.

under the bonnet on the right hand side there is a little black box, lift that cover and there is some relays and fuses etc etc. on my r33 series 2 there is three spare holes which you could fit relays, if yours is the same this would be a excellent spot for a professional looking job.

parts required

relays (3) (standard relays)

relay holders (3) (not required but the end result will look allot nicers)

4mm black wire (1 meters)

4mm yellow wire (4 meter)

4mm green wire (4 meter)

6mm red wire (1 meter)

condute black (4 meters)

electrical tapes (nitto is only tape ill ever use)

fuses (2) (if in that box there are free possitions try use them)

fuse holders (2) (if no possitions free)

blade crimps (8)

eyelet crimps (6) (that might not be the correct name)

zip ties

ill try explain this in the best possible way.

starting by removing some simple things that are in the way. off the top of my head the carbon canister, air box (if you have) or pod filter on the left side. on the right i think there is a water container of some sort.

now un-plug the wiring on the left side, get your electrical tape and cover the ends with tape and then tape the wires over, this will help prevent any wiring trouble.unplug the wiring on the right side. you can tape the earth part part up but youll need the positive for the high and low to use and the turn on parts of the relays.

starting with a simple part run some new earth leads, this isnt a required job but if there is any slight restriction in current flow the lights wont be as bright as they should be. youll need to run a black wire from each light to a earth point, this car be a bolt on the body somewhere or on the engine. closer to the lights the better and run both together to the same point (for looks only)

with the relays once you have found your place to put them name them h, lh and l. (will help with my instructions)from the possitive connector (or alternator) run two 6mm red wires, you run these to the two fuses, run two more red leads from the other side of the fuses, one of these goes straight onto pole number 30 of relay h. the other lead will need to have two relays running off this. i would suggest a simple cut and join two leads onto the end. the first of these two new leads will goto pole 30 of relay lh and the other of the leads will goto pole 30 of relay l.

using black wire connect pole 85 of all three relays straight to earth. run a yellow wire from your low beam positive to pole 86 of the l relay. run a green wire from your high beam possitive to pole 86 of the h and lh relays, try to have these wires run with factory wiring arround the edge of the car. this makes the modifications look more factory.

from pole 87 of the h relay you need two wires, so like done before run a short lead then solder two leads onto the end. using the green wire. the first of these leads is to goto right side high beam positive connector, run this wiring with the wires already coming from that place. the next wire goes to the left side high beam positive connector, when running this wire from one side to the other try to take the same route that factory wiring takes.

run a short lead from pole 87 of both lh and l relay. connect both these leads together and run two more leads off this. using yellow wire. the first lead goes to the right side low beam positive. and naturally the other lead goes to the left side low beam positive.

after you have finished all this try the lights to make sure they operate correctly.

now you need to go over what you have done covering all the wires with conduct and tape, cable tieing them in a secure fashion to prevent electrical shorts.

this is the only way i could think on how to get this working. hope all works well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11959-headlights/page/2/#findComment-254966
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...