Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

Went to get some new tyres and a wheel alignment for the r32 gtr, and the guys at the shop found a problem with front left castor, and as a result the couldnt do a alignment.

They done a measurement before doing the alignment, and found the front left wheel was further back than the right one. No doubt in the past, the car had an accident wher the front left wheel was pushed back.

the castor measurments are:

left: -0o11'

right: +3o29'

it slightly pulls to the left, so would it be a problem when i take it over the pits on monday???

ill take a pic of the section toomorw and post it up, hopefully someone can point out some possible problems.

thanks

Steve

Edited by PHATR32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119670-r32-gtr-caster-problem-maybe-big/
Share on other sites

Also, while the car was up getting the tyres done, i was checking out the front left suspension/steering components.

i was compairing the left and right sides, and found everything to look ok, excpet the thrid link on the left side looked like it may have been bent, then bent back into shape. It had a bit of surface rust forming on the edges, where paint had come off. (e.g when you bend painted steel the paint cracks)

The right side didnt have this.

The tension rods looked fine too.

Also, driving it at 110kph was perfect. no wobble or weird steering feel. It only pully slightly to the left if you let go of the steering wheel.

The pics shows the part that looked bent, do the gtst ones fit?

post-11604-1148651612.jpg

Thanks

Steve

Edited by PHATR32

I was gonna suggest looking at your caster bushes and seeing if they are aftermarket offset bushes. Maybe your LH side bush was 180 around and giving an atypical caster setting.

I think normally suspension places will set those bushes up so your D.S wheel is further back then your P.S wheel to compensate for the camber of australian roads. Roads normally peak in the middle and taper away each side for water run off and such.

But if that main arm is damaged then I suppose you cant look past that, it will definetly need some attention, whether you get a new one or a second hand one from wreckers or off someone on here whose wrecking a 32gtr.

  • 7 months later...

hey! blast from the past! and i havnt had time to fix the problem till now!

anyways, to sum it all up, the castor on the left side is full out of wack, as a result of an accident on the passenger side.

steering and suspension parts have been replaced with other stock items but it hasnt helped.

quiestion is what can i do? is it possible to get the chassis straighened (with out having to pull all panels and other crap apart) or should i get and adjustable castor rod put in?

i understand the castor rod is just a patch, but funds will be low for a while due to house renovations, so any help will be very much appreciated!

thanks guys

steve

they can put your car on a chassis alligner quite cheaply. at least get it on there first and they can check the chassis for straigtness and tell you where and by how much it's bent. I know of a few places in sydney that do it. but I can't remember where you are. It would be worth doing as the castor problem may just be the tip of the iceberg.

thanks for that, ill get it checked out.

What do mean by the tip of the iceberg? what else could be wrong?

mind you, ive had the WHOLE fton end of the car apart e.g from the firewall forward was removed, clean, painted etc etc. at one stage it was the bare chassis sitting there. the sub frame was also cleaned and painted, but i didnt notice any damage done to it (replaced) the suspensions componenets have also been replaced, so the only thing left is the chaissis.

thanks BB!

im in perth btw

thanks for that, ill get it checked out.

What do mean by the tip of the iceberg? what else could be wrong?

mind you, ive had the WHOLE fton end of the car apart e.g from the firewall forward was removed, clean, painted etc etc. at one stage it was the bare chassis sitting there. the sub frame was also cleaned and painted, but i didnt notice any damage done to it (replaced) the suspensions componenets have also been replaced, so the only thing left is the chaissis.

thanks BB!

im in perth btw

what I meant is it may be a symptom of much worse damage, but dont listen to that. it doesn't take much of a bend in any part of an arm, or part of the chassis to give a massive change in alignment. so fingers crossed it's just a small bit of damage somewhere that they can fix easily.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...