Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, just my 2c worth.

I have a R32 GTR and, believe it or not, a FWD mazda 626 with quad throttle body injection on it.

Both have aftermarket fuel injection on them. Both have known/measured CC/Min injectors in them. Both have a known fuel pressure at peak power. Both have a known AFR at peak power off the dyno.

Both have known duty cycle/ms delivery time at their peak KW/HP off the laptop which allows me to calculate actual fuel consumption for each engine.

This fuel consumption directly relates to kw/hp produced by the engine.

The formula that defines this relationship does not change after a good arguement ( thank god for that )

Rather than bore you with the calculations here are the results instead.

R32 GTR in 2WD mode on a dyno dymanics dyno 260rwkw/348hp> Calculated HP at the engine 530hp

or a 35% transmission loss/tire frictional losses etc etc

Mazda 626 quad T/B injection 91 FWKW/ 121 hp at the wheels > calculated HP at engine 168hp

or a 27% loss for the front wheel drive.

These are typical figures on our dyno for most rwd or fwd vehicles > ie: repeatable results

hope this helps,

Mike

R32 GTR in 2WD mode on a dyno dymanics dyno 260rwkw/348hp> Calculated HP at the engine 530hp

or a 35% transmission loss/tire frictional losses etc etc

just shy of 200hp loss, in RWD mode?

righhhhtttttt

your maths is incredibly wrong somewhere, or your dyno reads incredibly low, 200hp of loss is a MONSTEROUS amount..

As it was stated before, a % power loss is not accurate. A 700BHP GTR isnt going to lose any more power through its drivetrain than a 400BHP GTR, providing they have the same transmission/gearbox/clutch/flywheel/fluid.

Its much more logical that its a fixed amount. Someone suggested about 50-60KW of power loss from engine to rear wheel figure. And about 3-4% difference from this to an AWKW figure...

Edited by mazgtr

with my gtr there was i think 27kw(just under 30kw's) different from awkw's to rwkw's.

and somewhat the same kinda power loss with a friend of mines gtr as well. (dyno'd at the same place)

i have heard that through the attessa there is a power loss of 35% from the engine to all four wheels(the total figure put out).

True, ive seen a car with "420RWKW" only clock 119MPH. And another GTR with 390RWKW clock 136MPH. Both on stock transmission.

Clearly one car is makeing a lot more power than the other...

yes tru tru :P

my old dr30 did 11.8 @128 mph with 329rwkw

my gtr does 11.7@116mph with 315.9 rwkw.

im sure the wieght diferance will contribute but 12mph is a pretty big diff

yes tru tru >_<

my old dr30 did 11.8 @128 mph with 329rwkw

my gtr does 11.7@116mph with 315.9 rwkw.

im sure the wieght diferance will contribute but 12mph is a pretty big diff

probably all in the launch, gt-r im guessing gets out of the hole better than the DR did, meaning it gets a good first 1/4 of the track but looses out on the top end mph, where as the dr might be boggy/wheel spinning out of the hole, but has the bigger mph to get to an almost identical time..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...