Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys just picked up my 32 gtr last night (farking love it awsome awsome car and thats coming from a 3037 equipped 180sx owner lol) and was just curious into something that has happened a few times.

I was on the highway from picking the car up travelling arpound 110-120 on slight throttle to miantain speed wasn't really full concentrating so don't know any thing else, but all of a sudden the rear end of the car sorta stepped/steered out to the left and I had to correct the steering, it felt as if the rear wheels were turning as in 4 wheel steering.

Another time I accelerated hard 1st 2nd 3rd for a little bit taking off onto a highway and when I backed off the throttle the car again sorta stepped to the left again,

My car is suppose to be fitted with a tomei hicas lock, when I turn the car on the hicas light comes on and never goes away so I presume its cause its been locked.

Is this normal possibly to do with power been distrubited to opposite wheels atesa? etc or something, its just got me worried as it is pretty scary when your car does something you dont expect.

Also while driving theres no wobble or weird steering feel but the car does slightly pull to left not bad though.

Edited by Evasion
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119767-gtr-sorta-just-swerves-itself/
Share on other sites

could be a number of things ie worn bushes etc - the rear cradle ones can fail although the car shouldn't behave radically. try checking wheel alignment first and see what you have. GTRs havea tendency to tramline but that's usually felt at the front.

Edited by Scooby

if the tomei lock kit has been fitted correctly it shouldn't light up the hicas light.

I suspect someone has just unplugged the solenoid in the engine bay and the rear end is flapping in the breeze, or the warning light is really telling you that there is a problem.

I had the same thing happen in my 32gtst and it was a problem with the hicas. First port of call will be to check that the rear end is locked as it doesn't sound like it.

if the tomei lock kit has been fitted correctly it shouldn't light up the hicas light.

I suspect someone has just unplugged the solenoid in the engine bay and the rear end is flapping in the breeze, or the warning light is really telling you that there is a problem.

I had the same thing happen in my 32gtst and it was a problem with the hicas. First port of call will be to check that the rear end is locked as it doesn't sound like it.

Hmm K, thanks for that cause the hicas light never turns off so may be telling me something there, have to visit a workshop sometime soon and pop it on a hoist and get someone to look over it.

Its just weird its done it prob 5 times now, did it again and I have noticed it after I give it a squirt so dont belive the road surface is the problem.

Hmm K, thanks for that cause the hicas light never turns off so may be telling me something there, have to visit a workshop sometime soon and pop it on a hoist and get someone to look over it.

First check that your power steering fluid is up to the right level. If its low the HICAS light will come on. Mine was right at the bottom of the filler reservoir - bringing it up to half way (check the markings on the stalk connected to the cap) sorted it out.

HTH,

Kot

Hmm K, thanks for that cause the hicas light never turns off so may be telling me something there, have to visit a workshop sometime soon and pop it on a hoist and get someone to look over it.

Its just weird its done it prob 5 times now, did it again and I have noticed it after I give it a squirt so dont belive the road surface is the problem.

Well first things first:

Have you had a chance to get the car wheel aligned? One of the side effects of getting a HICAS lock kit installed is that is puts the rear toe in out to the shithouse. Too much rear toe will cause you large amounts of rear wheel tramlining. So check that first. Will cost you <$100 and is worth doing on a newly acquired GT-R in any case.

Secondly have a look under the back for dead subframe bushes.

First check that your power steering fluid is up to the right level. If its low the HICAS light will come on. Mine was right at the bottom of the filler reservoir - bringing it up to half way (check the markings on the stalk connected to the cap) sorted it out.

HTH,

Kot

I feel like an idiot, yesterday I was going through the engine bay comparing where stuff is opposed to my 180 and I completely over missed the power steering resovoir, had a look at that just then and no oil was in it :( so topped that up and that got rid of the hicas light. And it is not a major swerve as the title suggests more just just like it strafes to left for half a second just to give you a quick shock. But yeh has only happened a few times last 2 times been off throttle after accelerating hard, if it happens again ill be going for a wheel allingment/get it put on a hoist by mechanic

Edited by Evasion
Sorry to hijack.

When its said that GTR's (r32) tend to Tramline.

How is that problem fixed? is it because of the AWD?

Thanks

No the AWD has nothing to do with it. Symptom of wide rubber and suspension geometry, can be exacerbated by using stiff sidewal tyres - I had Michelin Pilots for a while and they were hopeless for tramlining. Yokos hardly cause a problem.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
×
×
  • Create New...