Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, i changed the gear box oil in my 32 gtr to the 'redline lightweight shock proof' smurf blood stuff. i drained out the old stuff and i filled the new stuff through the shifter as getting the filler out was going to be very difficult. Anyway i put the old oil in the redline contained and it looked pretty much as much as i put in (about 3.8L) i looked up the manual and it said use 4.1. Anyway i took it for a bit of a drive today and it has sprayed oil out the breather all over the gear box, it was driping a bit but not sure how much oil came out, it looks alot but its probably maby 100-200ml if that as its just spread over large area.

I never seen any oil come out when the other oil was in it. Also i had a seaurch through the SAU forums and found 2 other people that had the same problem and they put in about the same amount of oil and people said it was too much.

Has anyone else had this sort of problem?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119822-gtr-gearbox-oil-problem/
Share on other sites

I have had the same problem on my GTS-4, only happened straight after i installed th Redline, and squirts a bit out from time to time.

Someone suggested to put a small fuel filter in the braether line, so the box can still breathe but wont make a mess.

Anyone else got any other ideas to fix it?

Hi, i changed the gear box oil in my 32 gtr to the 'redline lightweight shock proof' smurf blood stuff. i drained out the old stuff and i filled the new stuff through the shifter as getting the filler out was going to be very difficult. Anyway i put the old oil in the redline contained and it looked pretty much as much as i put in (about 3.8L) i looked up the manual and it said use 4.1. Anyway i took it for a bit of a drive today and it has sprayed oil out the breather all over the gear box, it was driping a bit but not sure how much oil came out, it looks alot but its probably maby 100-200ml if that as its just spread over large area.

I never seen any oil come out when the other oil was in it. Also i had a seaurch through the SAU forums and found 2 other people that had the same problem and they put in about the same amount of oil and people said it was too much.

Has anyone else had this sort of problem?

Thanks

If you filled it through the shifter you have filled the TRANSFER case with redline, i hope you havent been driving it for to long, you wouldn't have much oil in the g/box! Thats why you have oil everywhere, your trasfer case is overfilled and not oil gone in the box.

Drain the tansfer case, refill with atf and fill the g/box with whatever gear oil you prefer ( it takes about 3.8 lts) . Fill to the fill hole ( until it starts to run out ) both the transfer case and the box.

i jacked the car up and checked, and f**k you are right no oil in the box

thanks for the help guys u probably saven me alot of cash (unless damage is done) i didnt do many km thankfully.

wrxhoon you say atf is fine for transfer case, is dextron3 or what ever good? I have some here already...

i jacked the car up and checked, and f**k you are right no oil in the box

thanks for the help guys u probably saven me alot of cash (unless damage is done) i didnt do many km thankfully.

wrxhoon you say atf is fine for transfer case, is dextron3 or what ever good? I have some here already...

Atf, dextron III is fine for the transfer case( Nissan will sell you matic-d ). Use the same stuff for the attessa reservoir in the boot. If you want go an oil company's website and see what they recommend. You need about 1.8 lts from memmory .

Put some gear oil in the g/box, start it up and listen for bearing noise, if its quiet its all good ..

^^good question because the place i bought the redline from said they use it in transfer cases also (for WRXs) so might be a different set up for them as they are constant drive.

Wrx's don't have transfer cases!!

You wouldn't have done any damage to the transfer case but not so sure about the g/box, it depends on how hot you got it. Refill it , take it for a run and you will know by the sound of it ..

ok cheers

sorry missed that

umm so the gearbox and transfer case are different compartments?

and to drain the transfer case you need to undo the plug that is on the drivers side of the case? (cause last time i tried to undo it, it was impossible)

Is there any thing else i have to do when i drain the transfer case?

sorry about all the questions but iam new to this gtr stuff (i didnt realise how complicated a GTR is!!)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...