Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys I have plans for an R34 GT-T. J-spec has some for $25000 landed and complied (plus ive notcied one on here going or $25000!) As per normal it wont be left stock. Visualise a midnight purple R34 with 18" Starcorp Racing Impul Chromes (white with chrome lip and 18 by 9s on front and 18 by 10s on the rear). May or may not put on a URAS monkeykit. Mods are as follows:

- 3" cat-back zorst

- Trust FMIC

- Star Racing Impul Chromes (18 by 9"s and 18 by 10"s)

- HA coil-overs

- Nismo 2-way LSD

- Trust Td06-20G turbo

- 770cc injectors

- heavy duty clutch to support the new power

Now im a newbie when it comes to modding cars and have no idea about the costs involved so the flame suit is ready. If there are any parts that are needed that i havent mentioned yet please say so and the cost of the part. However, if someone would like to give me a rundown on the costs involved. I'm guessing about $3000 for paint job? $500 for zorst? $3000max for wheels? $1700 for HA Coils? $1100 for FMIC? and the rest im unsure about so any help will be appreciated. And as for how im gonna afford it, I'm employed by the Defence Force so its not really a problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119893-project-r34/
Share on other sites

wheels 1600

turbo back exhaust - 1200

turbo 2k maybe?

injectors 1k

fuel pump - 250-350

power fc - 1k

boost controller - $35 - $600

air filter - 100

FMIC - 500 - 1000

tuning 5-6hundred

new clutch - wouldn't hav ea clue how much

6-7k in engine mods alone

then there;s the suspension

Coilovers - 1.5-2.5k

thats a lot of money so I'd save that useless paint job $$$ and use it on the engine

unless you just wanna look good

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119893-project-r34/#findComment-2208532
Share on other sites

770cc injectors ehh? There's about $1500 worth of gear already :cheers:

I also don't think the Starcorp rims come in 18x9 and 18x10... even if they did, they would look ridiculously stupid as the wheels would come out of the guard. I have the 18x8.5 and 18x9.5 and they are already borderline.

What about boost control? Don't tell me you're planning on running a stock setting for such a large turbine?

And all those little bits and pieces? They all add up there too...

I agree with James, save the 5-6k from the paint job, and get the mechanicals all right first... at the moment it just seems like you want a bit of everything (Autosalon entry?)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119893-project-r34/#findComment-2208690
Share on other sites

Ok guys I have plans for an R34 GT-T. J-spec has some for $25000 landed and complied (plus ive notcied one on here going or $25000!) As per normal it wont be left stock. Visualise a midnight purple R34 with 18" Starcorp Racing Impul Chromes (white with chrome lip and 18 by 9s on front and 18 by 10s on the rear). May or may not put on a URAS monkeykit. Mods are as follows:

- 3" cat-back zorst

- Trust FMIC

- Star Racing Impul Chromes (18 by 9"s and 18 by 10"s)

- HA coil-overs

- Nismo 2-way LSD

- Trust Td06-20G turbo

- 770cc injectors

- heavy duty clutch to support the new power

Now im a newbie when it comes to modding cars and have no idea about the costs involved so the flame suit is ready. If there are any parts that are needed that i havent mentioned yet please say so and the cost of the part. However, if someone would like to give me a rundown on the costs involved. I'm guessing about $3000 for paint job? $500 for zorst? $3000max for wheels? $1700 for HA Coils? $1100 for FMIC? and the rest im unsure about so any help will be appreciated. And as for how im gonna afford it, I'm employed by the Defence Force so its not really a problem.

It will look hot when its finished will cost you though. As above you will need upgrade Fuel system, ECU, boost control, AFM, clutch, ECT check out the tuning guide in my sig it may help

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119893-project-r34/#findComment-2209224
Share on other sites

my advice would be -

1. buy the car

2. drive the car for a while

3. start to think about mods

its all pretty hypothetical at the moment, especially seeing as though you're only just thinking about importing now. have a look (search button) around here at what other people have done, should help you get things a bit clearer in your mind

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119893-project-r34/#findComment-2209244
Share on other sites

You do realise it is a major defect to have 18x9" rims on the front? You are only allowed 8" wide rims on the front by law (I think that is an ADR requirement). There is no point in 18x9" really because if you are going to go wider than a 245 tyre (which is about the widest you can get on an 8" rim), then you will probably have problems with rubbing on the inner guards at full lock. I would stick with 18x8" on the front with 235 tyres.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119893-project-r34/#findComment-2209388
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...