Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

depends on how much work you want to do to get it, the best way is to take off the resonator box and run a pipe straight from the throttle body to the air flow meter then to a poddy this will make a really nice suckson roar, although there has been some thoughts that you will loose power from doing this as supposibly the resonator box aides your power or something, but i found that when i did this to mine the throttle responce seemed a lot better a power seemed the same or mabye a litle more but ey might have been my brain playing tricks, i dont know if anyone has done dyno trials but ey ask around someone knows more than i do

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119941-air-filter/#findComment-2211268
Share on other sites

Go here for a listen to mine.

http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/jswright/screamin.html

It's a UNIfilter and custom intake pipe as unarmed is talking about, it ran 120rwkw with this set up.

I've recently changed to a Blitz Superpower LM filter, because it is a dry filter and I was sick of cleaning my air flow meter, and I have lost a little top end and all of the scream! Going to put the UNIfilter back on for competion and use the Blitz for day to day driving...

Edited by screamin'
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119941-air-filter/#findComment-2213864
Share on other sites

either take the snorkel off the factoy box and run a good filter, like a k&n, or get a pod. both will create a deep noise. i had a pod on my 6 sylinder falcon and it sounded like a stock v8. then i had a 2000 magna with a 3.5l v6 and with the snorkel off and a k&n panel filter it sounded beefy. doesn't seem to work on commodores though, but it was an auto and all the rest were manuals. a pod will make more noise than a panel with the snorkel off. to get a rough idea of what it will sound like, take of the front of the airbox and take out the filter and rev the car suddenly. just make sure there is no crap around the airbox that could get sucked in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119941-air-filter/#findComment-2214056
Share on other sites

depends on how much work you want to do to get it, the best way is to take off the resonator box and run a pipe straight from the throttle body to the air flow meter then to a poddy this will make a really nice suckson roar, although there has been some thoughts that you will loose power from doing this as supposibly the resonator box aides your power or something, but i found that when i did this to mine the throttle responce seemed a lot better a power seemed the same or mabye a litle more but ey might have been my brain playing tricks, i dont know if anyone has done dyno trials but ey ask around someone knows more than i do

The resonator in an OEM airbox is to smooth out the airflow. For some reason its especially bad on NA cars, but at a certain speed the air being drawn into the intake causes weird airflow through the pipe. This screws your AFM's reading, which can kill power and will definitely cause strange noises to come from the engine.

My engine makes a great induction roar, but then I've got a pod filter using minimal heat shielding going into a pipe that's only got 1 bend to the intake manifold.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119941-air-filter/#findComment-2214582
Share on other sites

hey scathing, i've had no wierd noises comming from my engine n the airflow seems fine, i think though sometimes it does struggle to find idle when you are sitting at the lights or whatever, but otherwise no probs, the car runs 15.5's down the 1/4 with the induction, a cat bak 2 1/4 mandral bent zorst n a heavy duty clutch, n it has a heavy arse body kit on it, so i can't c the resinator taking any power from the car

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119941-air-filter/#findComment-2223330
Share on other sites

Yeah im getting an apexi duel somethign or other pod air filter, id like to get a pipe tu run from the motor direct to the pod filter. Does anyone know where i can get this in brisbane or someone in brisbane that can custom make it.

And to the guy who said it was making to much noise so he took it off, i hope myne makes all the noise that it can.

Thx

Everyone

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119941-air-filter/#findComment-2227261
Share on other sites

Sorry about the noob questions (ur all prolly gonna laugh): what is the different between a pod filter and air filter?? and which ones better

AHaha im a noob and you make me look good lol. A pod filter is a type of air filter. Just like a panel filter. Its just the shape of the filter that gives it the name, go to google, images, and type pod filter.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119941-air-filter/#findComment-2240139
Share on other sites

so whats the best one to get? HKS, K&N or apexi? i also want the swoosh noise :D

Try this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=119448

A'pexi filters best, but it's horses for courses. 'swoosh' doesn't nessecarily equal good filtration, so which do you want more, noise or engine longevity?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119941-air-filter/#findComment-2252493
Share on other sites

hey scathing, i've had no wierd noises comming from my engine n the airflow seems fine, i think though sometimes it does struggle to find idle when you are sitting at the lights or whatever, but otherwise no probs, the car runs 15.5's down the 1/4 with the induction, a cat bak 2 1/4 mandral bent zorst n a heavy duty clutch, n it has a heavy arse body kit on it, so i can't c the resinator taking any power from the car

15.5? i dont think that is a good thing as i did my first ever 1/4 run and got 15.9, the car is stock, have you had the car dyno tuned after you got the mods? would probbably be good idea. What induction kit have you got?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119941-air-filter/#findComment-2272343
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thank you, 100% the intent. New coils were due and the 17" sixers look/feel loads better than the stock wheels. The aero options are so spot on.   Thanks for the warm welcome, all!
    • 98 r34 gtt Been rocking my latest setup and car running like never before. Have put a good 200 miles on it since all the latest changes and additions. everything is dialed in and have been driving it a bunch.   However, all a sudden last weekend as soon as I pushed throttle passed 4k and the engine stumbles, (slow or fast acceleration) hesitates and doesn’t go above 4100 or so, like a misfire. Everything else seems fine. I had a “good” set of coil packs that I removed from car when I first got it when I changed them over to new coils. I swapped out current ones for those, but no change. I also changed the plugs, no change. Seems to rev over 4 when out of gear with no load just fine no “misfire”, but as soon as its in gear with a load of any kind, it “misfires” as soon as rpm drop back below 4 k it runs perfectly, smooth, starts, restarts and drives fine as long as I keep it below 4 k while in gear. All readings look fine, no CEL   Any idea as to what could all a sudden cause an issue when pushing rpms passed 4 k?
    • When you say your cams are 272/262 is that 272in and 262ex?
    • We're arguing semantics. I am saying 45 accel and a 55 deccel ramp are "2 ways". Even a 45 degree ramp and an 89 degree ramp is "2 ways", because it is literally... two ways. The cusco 55/30 ramp is a 2 way. It's two ways. I get it though - in normal nomenclature a "2 way" would be 45/45 or 55/55 or 60/60 i.e the same locking in both directions. And something like 45/65 would be considered "1.5 way". I would then say if we're getting into the nitty gritty then every locking diff is a "2 way" diff and we should not speak in 1.5, or 2 ways but ramp angles instead. Which ofc if one of those ramp angles is 90deg, that side is not doing any locking. :p So Nismo don't obviously sell 3 things. The fact of the matter that they only sell two items really goes to show that there's a 2 way and a "1,5 way" which is really a 1 way. I believe the actual lockup for the 'adjustability' of the GT pro is really just setting preload for when the ramps actually start locking up. It's not changing how much 'wayness' there is. It is (somehow) horribly explained. People just buy whatever diff and go "locks up good bruh" and that's what ends up on socials forever.  
×
×
  • Create New...