Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the problem is when the car gets stuck in 1st gear and wont shift to 2nd unless it revvs rigth through to almost redline (or with the r33's, push the snow button).

well ive read around about the auto boxes and so far ive gathered the following:

- even after a gearbox change, the problem still exists.

- could possibly be electrical, but noone knows for sure.

- or this:

when i sent my crank off to get machined, they told me i need a new crank because my thrust bearing was worn over the 5 thou limit.. it was at 20 thou!

when we put my car back together the first time we noticed the oil pressure to be a bit low (too low).

even after being warned by my bro in law (mechanic) that there was a problem, i still insisted on taking it out for the weekend and checking pressure later. i drove quite a fair bit, around 250k's that weekend and noticed that i got the sticky 1st problem more regular than usual (from once every few days, to 5 or 6 times in that day).

i was just thinking that they were related because the problem got worse as the thrust bearing got worn away from the low oil pressure (and on the autos the crank is connected to the torque converter).

i dont know how the torque converter works, but i was told that i may be right.

thats why i came here...

let me know what you guys think and if the problems could be related.

Sure it's not the shifter mechanism itself? That would explain the box change not fixing the problem. Or a problem with the shift computer? Have you swapped in a spare transmission computer to check?

To me it could be a heat related if you drove it for a long time and it got worse. Unless possibly the computer adapts its shift mechanism based on the engine oil pressure ? (but I don't believe it does). The computer also goes off pressure and temp sensors on the auto as well.

Auto thrust bearing? Don't you meant the spigot bush? That is what goes in the back of the crank, and the auto shaft goes into.

yeah my old gearbox used to do that, i found if i just took my foot off the accelerator, then hit it hard again it'd change but i still didnt know what it was but the new gearbox hasnt given me troubles since ( had to change the old one coz reverse gave way in it :( )

Edited by **JaR**

the only reason i'd tie the thrust bearing to it is before my 1st build it had little movement and it would get stuck on occasion.

when i went with the oil pressure problem it got worse.. and eded up having alot of movement... so i figured the problems could be tied.

im not sure how it works, but the torque converter sits on the back of the crank in the autos (i think). maybe its got to do with that?

  • 3 weeks later...

well im still getting this problem.. sucks major ass.

would over-filling the gearbox oil have an effect on getting stuck in 1st? when i had the oil changed they over filled it by a fair bit which i just noticed now.

I've only just encountered a similar problem to this as well, only my car gets stuck in 2nd. When I take my foot off the breaks from stand still (like at a set of lights) the car doesn't move forward like it should, and when it does take off it starts in 2nd and doesn't move. Poor value! :P

i had a similar problem in my auto gemini.Caused thrugh shifting manually and thrashing the living end out of it....When taken to a transmission specialist on mulgoa road penrith (cant remember name) they said that it was a blocked actuator valve.that or some other sort of valve that enabled the shifts were blocked.

Basically it would only shift at the high rpm range.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
×
×
  • Create New...