Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, Ive been looking at several intercooler kits for my gtst. The cheaper ones come with 2.5 inch piping but the more expensive ones come with 3. Is it really worth spending the extra few hundred and get the 3" piping? I mean i know that the larger diameter will flow better, but is it going to make a difference that will justify spending more money?

Come to think about it, anyone know the throttle body diameter for an RB25det off the top of their heads?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120301-intercooler-piping-diameter/
Share on other sites

2.5" piping is more then enough... it will keep turbo lag to a minimum as well as give you an even flow with your stock intake pipe...

The FMIC core flow is what will cool the air and give you best perfoemance... Have a look at the Gktech FMIC kit in the group buy section...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=120149

Best value for money!

Cheers

while were on the subject of throttle bodies... :D

1. would going slightly larger be an advantage for rb25det ???

2. and wat size would u recommend :santa: ?

1. No, not until you are well and truly past the limit of the standard internals

2. See #1

:D cheers :D

T/body diameter should be the same for both.

There is no point going to 3 inch pipe work unless you are doing a major upgrade and seeking more than 400hp at the wheels. There is also no point upgrading the pipework if you are running standard cams as your hp limit will be around 230-240rwkw anyway and the 2 1/2 inch piping is more than capable of handling up to 300rwkw and over. The outlet on the turbo should only be around 2 - 2 1/4 inch as well so adjusting for some expansion would take you to the optimum diameter of 2.5

Similar type questions...

1. Does the 'fatness' of the cooler make a lot of difference...?? Ive seen them from say 65mm thick to 100mm?

2. Is the cooler only as effective as the the surface area exposed to the rush of air... (ie is the area of intercooler blocked by the front bar useless?)

Because I was thinking of just getting a cooler that wasn't as 'tall' as the usual 300mm and going for something half as tall.

the thickness of the cooler only really adds to lag unless u got mega horsepower, id say nething more than 75mm thickness is a waste for up to 20psi..

and yes a coola behind a bumper will not be as affective as a cooler with direct air flow... ie, is the reason u mite see ppl cutting up there stock bumper to expose more of the coola..

one thing i always thort but, wouldnt with beta flow ud achieve more horsepower?... like thru 3" at 15psi wouldnt the flow produce slightly more hp than the flow from 2.5" ??.. or does the 2.5" act in no way restrictive?

Edited by BiRDY

You loose airspeed with the larger pipe. it bottle necks when it reduces back down at the throttle body, and the larger area means more area to fill so can slightly increase lag. Your pipework should be the same size as your turbo outlet & throttle body. No step ups or reductions, just nice and smooth flow. in saying that the lag problem is easily sorted out if the pipework is shorter. If it is one of those cheap kits where the pipework runs up behind the radiator and then around into the throttle body, then no matter what pipe diameter, you have a large area to fill due to the pipe length, therfore increase in lag, and also heatsoke in the cooler pipe.

SMIC is more efficient but doesnt have the rice factor. There are kits where the cooler inlet and outlet are on the same side, this keeps the pipework shorter and cooler, therefore giving you a cooler charge even when you push a larger volume of air through at higher boost pressures. Do yourself a favour and spend the extra money on a kit that has been designed correctly.

the thickness of the cooler only really adds to lag unless u got mega horsepower, id say nething more than 75mm thickness is a waste for up to 20psi..

and yes a coola behind a bumper will not be as affective as a cooler with direct air flow... ie, is the reason u mite see ppl cutting up there stock bumper to expose more of the coola..

one thing i always thort but, wouldnt with beta flow ud achieve more horsepower?... like thru 3" at 15psi wouldnt the flow produce slightly more hp than the flow from 2.5" ??.. or does the 2.5" act in no way restrictive?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
    • Yeah, I would have said the same. It makes me suggest that there are other things wrong, such that the ECU is totally unhappy with the broken sensor. The only other thought here is that maybe it is shorted, which might cause a different issue to the typical "disconnected" sensor.
    • The fact that US/JDM plates actually fit the skyline bumpers properly is a big, big thing for me as they are the correct dimensions. Annoyingly you can't opt for a normal plate (or plate combination) in that size. You have to make up your own one, and at that point you'd still know it wasn't randomly assigned. 
    • Well, really, that's any ECU, because it's not so much the ECU that the tuner connects to, but a laptop that's connected to the ECU. You have to have the tuning software installed locally. The "remote" part is essentially just remote desktop (RDP) or VNC type access. Nevertheless, if you're looking to upgrade, then you're immediately in the Haltech/Link territory, both of which can be done by any number of competent tuners here in Oz. But without a dyno, you'll definitely also need a wideband O2 sensor fitted, and you'll probably be relying on "auto" tuning a bit, where you drive it around under various loads and then apply the corrections that the ECU learns (basically applying the fuel trims that the ECU has to do to correct the mixtures). Tuning the timing is a little harder. It can be difficult to trust the old OEM knock sensors on RBs, so it is definitely best to have someone who knows what they're listening for, with knock ears (a piezo microphone connected to the engine, and and little amp and headphones so the listener can hear the angry men with hammers who live in the engine). That is more difficult to do remotely, and I suspect the only sane way is to be quite conservative on timing. But that's OK. You're probably waaaaay better off with conservative timing where you are. What is the fuel situation? 98RON available? Or low grade jungle juice?
    • I see your point, I didn't think too deep into it, was purely focused on the price. There's no bad blood between myself and GSM, they acknowledged the price was cheaper else where and at the time couldn't match it. 
×
×
  • Create New...