Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

a while back when i got my car it started with this annoying idle where it revs up and down between 1-2.5krpm. to combat this annoying noise i lifted the idle to around 2.5krpm and it would just stay there. i have tried a few things like cleaning the AFM and cleaning/swapping the idle controller over. cleaning the AFM didnt do shit, then tonight i have figured that im pretty sure its not the idle controller.

so yeh any ideas to try?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120387-weird-idle/
Share on other sites

a while back when i got my car it started with this annoying idle where it revs up and down between 1-2.5krpm. to combat this annoying noise i lifted the idle to around 2.5krpm and it would just stay there. i have tried a few things like cleaning the AFM and cleaning/swapping the idle controller over. cleaning the AFM didnt do shit, then tonight i have figured that im pretty sure its not the idle controller.

so yeh any ideas to try?

have you tested with different AFM?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120387-weird-idle/#findComment-2219072
Share on other sites

if youv got an atmospheric bov dont overlook that. when i first purchased my car it used to fluctuate in revs and sometimes when i was driving it would stall & i found out it was becasue the spring tension on my bov was to soft. havent had a problem since. now i got all new issues :S

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120387-weird-idle/#findComment-2223729
Share on other sites

If none of that works, clean out your throttle body. If you dont have an oil catch can, you might want to get one.

What is an oil catch can going to do for him?

Your O2 sensor controls idle settings, then after around 1500-2000rpm the AFM takes over. The AFM is a very likely cause but don't rule out something simple like an O2 sensor.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120387-weird-idle/#findComment-2223763
Share on other sites

Sometimes when my car is cold the revs will kind've stick.. like idles at 1100rpm (i think, this is when its cold) then I reverse out my driveway and the revs wont go back to 1100rpm, stays close to 2k (no accelerator) then will sometimes drop back down to 1100rpm..

Would this be a similar thing?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120387-weird-idle/#findComment-2223770
Share on other sites

Yeah mine seems to be doing the same thing, not reving quite so high, but constantly on-off when idling from 600rpm -> 1200rpm.

Cleaned out the AFM tonight, and took it apart, resoldered the joints (one was very crappy and broke off when i touched it with a screwdriver!) - but put it back on again, and the farking thing was still doing it.

Your O2 sensor is just after the turbo in the dump pipe, I've got a spare one I'm going to try tomorrow, even though the voltages seem to be fine. :

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120387-weird-idle/#findComment-2224133
Share on other sites

What is an oil catch can going to do for him?

Your O2 sensor controls idle settings, then after around 1500-2000rpm the AFM takes over. The AFM is a very likely cause but don't rule out something simple like an O2 sensor.

How the hell does your 02 sensor control idle settings?

Its easy to test for a fouled IAC, all you have to do is crimp the hose that feeds it from the intake pipe with a soft pair of pliars, if the revs drop then thats your problem if it doesn't then there is air getting in somewhere else. Make sure your BOV is fully closed and all IC pipes are tight. If there it is still holding high the cold idle up valve under the manifold can sometimes f**k up too. You can check this by crimping the hose feeding it too. If the idle is sitll high then check your intake manifold gaskets.

You guys have got to remeber that the AFM cannot make for a high idle especially not 2000 rpm. The only way this is possible is if the ECU thought it was pulling more load then what it was therefore addressing a higher airflow ignition number. Now a dirty AFM will casue a lumpy idle as the airflow signal usually reads less when it is dirty so the car runs lean. If anything the 02 sensor would attempt to cover this as it will trim more fuel in to get it back to stoich. The biggest sign that your AFM is carbonised is during a hot start condition as there is no cold enrichment and it will take about 10 -15 seconds for the 02 sensor to wake up and do its thing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120387-weird-idle/#findComment-2224691
Share on other sites

^^cheers for that.

i have got the feeling that it is a vacum leak, as it really happended after i got it back from a dyno mechanic. im thinking they may have fiddled around with things and maybe left a hose or something loose or somthing :P

Edited by nisskid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120387-weird-idle/#findComment-2234625
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

Ive gott a good hunch its a vacuum problem, Mate im having the same problem and all my Vacuum lines are up the shit including the ones to my Charcol canister. Does anyone have any good diagrams or able to get some pictures of all the lines in the engine bay for us please please please :(. If you give your car some herbs and u hit the BOV and take your foot off the pedal does the revs drop heaps . Ive had mine hit BOV release time took the foot off the pedal and had it STALL and its p*ssing me off. Any ideas peoples?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120387-weird-idle/#findComment-5193054
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...