Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes maybe? But what if you modify the standard airbox and fit a CAI onto it plus a high flowing Apexi panel filter ?

That's excatly what I have been doing on a gtr. I currently have apexi pods (like that when I bought it), but no CAI. I have been messing around with varrious designs to at least, partition the pods and feed cold air from the air ducts built into the front bar.

Not happy with the products available plus the cost of some, what I did was modify the standard snorkel that takes air from behind the headlight, and fit a 90mm pipe to where the ressonator box usualy connects on the snorkel, and position it behind the air duct in the front bar.

Looks totally standard, is very well sealed as it's using the factory air-box, and it works.

Now I'm going to utillise the resonator container and the windscreen washer bottle for a intercooler water spray set-up I've been working on.

I can post pics soon as I'm going to remove the front bar for some other mods

Exactly Paul! As if a custom 3" CAI with a fully sealed POD enclosure isnt going to give you a much better air flow/suction then the standard box! Of coarse it will...
Edited by my_gtr32
  • Replies 100
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Yes I have a template of sorts. I was going to partition the pods and use the bonnet as the seal for the top. It would have looked at bit 'home made' as I'm no expert using sheet metal. In the end I decided to use the standard airbox idea.

what we need is a cheap sheild for twin pods for the r32 GTR!!!

god dam it does anyone have a template!

Steve

Like i said, what you do in your own car is your business, I wont be fabricating pvc intakes for any of my customers cars, wouldnt say alot about the quality of my work, either would i be fitting bleed valves. If you are nieve enough to think that a bleed valve is as effective as a EBC or chineses intercooler as efficient as a PWR or Hyperflow Or even Genuine GTR core then you have alot to learn. These intakes are custom made, not a brand name, and over $100 cheaper. yuo fit your drain pipe if you want, but dont talk down better quality parts due to the price. You get what you pay for as in everything in life.

To answer your comment, products such as intercoolers, CAI, bleed valves are all non mechanical and non electrical devices.. How can you justify spending the extra $$$ for the a near identical product that does the same job??? Fair enough the name brands might be bit more appealing in appearance but to compare a CAI costing $50 or spending $300 on a name brand and both do the same job is not logical.. and might i add there is nothing wrong with those $400 FMIC kits and $22 boost controllers..

Cheers

i can't justify spending hundreds of dollars on an electronic boost controller unless i was running high boost where a bleed valve wouldn't hold it. if it is only small boost changes then an electronic boost controller works out at quite a few hundred dollars more for maybe 5hp more. for the same money you could buy a bleed valve and a piggy back computer and make over 20hp more.

not everyone has thousands of dollars to spend on the top of the line products.

Like i said, and ill repeat, what you put on your own car is your business, im trying to advise people on the best way to do the job, its then up to them on what they decide. Im sorry if ive hit a raw nerve, but this is what i do for a living and the advise im giving is to help others, and given only when i know that it is correct.

I dont comment on things im not sure about as not to give poor or incorrect advise. Just like saying that you only need a EBC if you are running high boost. I know thats bullshit.

Here's your next custom PVC CAI boys'n'girls!

post-695-1149220764.jpg

don't want to start a war here, but all i was saying with the EBC comment was that at low boost use, like 1 or 2psi above the wastegate pressure, there is little to be gained for the extra ~$500. if you are running 18psi then there would be a lot to be gained for the extra money.

Edited by mad082
don't want to start a war here, but all i was saying with the EBC comment was that at low boost use, like 1 or 2psi above the wastegate pressure, there is little to be gained for the extra ~$500. if you are running 18psi then there would be a lot to be gained for the extra money.

Little to gain? How about avoiding a costly rebuild potentially costing thousands of dollars by having an EBC for your low boost application. No spiking on ebc's PARTICULARLY on low boost. I have never ever ever run more than 1.0bar on my stocker - I just can't afford the re-build.

Adrian

i hear more about EBC's stuffing up, or being stuffed from the word go than bleed valves. one guy with a BEC had a post on here where it was boosting normal in first then 42psi in second. i call that a big stuff up, and a possible cause of serious damage. don't hear much of that happening on bleed valves. the more complicated something is, the more chance of something going wrong.

i hear more about EBC's stuffing up, or being stuffed from the word go than bleed valves. one guy with a BEC had a post on here where it was boosting normal in first then 42psi in second. i call that a big stuff up, and a possible cause of serious damage. don't hear much of that happening on bleed valves. the more complicated something is, the more chance of something going wrong.

You're nothing if not entertaining, mate.

Take it easy fellas... All Madz is trying to say, that for a stock/light modified car, a manual boost controller will be more then enough to give you the boost level required. Therefore the money saved from buying an EBC you can put it toward an aftermarket ECU which has much more power gain potential... It all comes down to your power goal and application... anything up to 200rw/kw from a R33 a manual boost controller is more then enough as long as its tuned well...

Back to the topic... My belief is if the design and construction of the CAI system is hi flowing and seals the POD from the hot air in the engine bay, it will do as good of a job as the $300 setups... How do you think all those performance CAI systems were made?? All by trial and error in some ones garage till they found the best design and put it into production and that’s why the consumer pays so much due to all the time, effort, materials, labeling, packaging and marketing behind the product… Just because something is home made does not make it a poorer quality or 'bodgy'.. Just check out the DIY section.. there are hundreds of threads which will save you $$$ by Doing It Yourself...

Cheers

Berzerkr32

I happen to want to hear this information, not everyone on here has a $17,000 car, some are track cars put together on a shoe string, with high damage risk and they would rather replace a piece of 50c pvc than a $300 bling bit, your comments are valid but not for all of us.

Like i said, and ill repeat, what you put on your own car is your business, im trying to advise people on the best way to do the job, its then up to them on what they decide. Im sorry if ive hit a raw nerve, but this is what i do for a living and the advise im giving is to help others, and given only when i know that it is correct.

I dont comment on things im not sure about as not to give poor or incorrect advise. Just like saying that you only need a EBC if you are running high boost. I know thats bullshit.

Here's your next custom PVC CAI boys'n'girls!

Haha piss funny pic.... not really what im after either

Just a quick question... Would an R32 GTSt Stock air filter box fit into an R33?? Because the R32 uses the lid section to mount the AFM therefore allowing a cold air feed from the bottom half same design on the N14 and N15 Pulsars... Unlike the R33 factory box design the air flow come from the lid…

Cheers

I dont see the point in fabricating some custom CAI and pod filter for some 200rwkw application when the stock air box with K&N filter should be more than fine.

Also consider that if you were buying a car and had a choice of two, would you pick the one with "custom" PVC in the engine bay or the other one? :)

On a brighter note, have a manual boost controller / bleed valve (I believe) is fine in my books for such a small application.

Hey Luke, I agree and would LOVE to keep my stock air box, however when the FMIC is fitted the factory snorkel won’t fit anymore due to the crossover pipe... I read a thread on modifying the snorkel to fit but all that’s doing is reducing the air flow capacity… So a enclosed POD with CAI is the best step… besides you can so easily put the factory box back on with no dramas…

Would the R32 GTSt Stock air filter box fit into an R33??

Cheers

If you run the staqndard intercooler piping, you would not have to modify the air box.

Hey Luke, I agree and would LOVE to keep my stock air box, however when the FMIC is fitted the factory snorkel won’t fit anymore due to the crossover pipe... I read a thread on modifying the snorkel to fit but all that’s doing is reducing the air flow capacity… So a enclosed POD with CAI is the best step… besides you can so easily put the factory box back on with no dramas…

Would the R32 GTSt Stock air filter box fit into an R33??

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...