Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 100
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

If the advise i am giving does not apply to your application please ignore it. Its fair to say that a large percentage of people on this forum would have payed decent money for there car. some of these people might be interested in spending a bit more money and install a good looking air box assy. All i am doing is showing people that there is a couple of options. If PVC pipe is for you, thats o.k. If you want to pay $300 for a K&N CAI, thats all good too, if you want the CAI we make for $180, thats great also. The forum is in place so people can ask questions and get ideas. Not to smash someone as soon as they advise someone on how they would do it and then have everyone whinge about thats too expensive, If your not willing to spend that money on your car thats your business, i dont think it is right that you people get on here and say that it is ridiculose to spend that kind of money. Im shore the Police down here would pay less attention to an airbox that looks like it has been fabricated well and looks neat rather than some pvc piping.

Berzerkr32

I happen to want to hear this information, not everyone on here has a $17,000 car, some are track cars put together on a shoe string, with high damage risk and they would rather replace a piece of 50c pvc than a $300 bling bit, your comments are valid but not for all of us.

the performance loss of having the piping across the top of the raiator is minimal as the air is travelling at a high speed. and if you have ever put your hand on that pipe after giving the car a good flogging you will find that it isn't that hot. the piping is about 2 inches from the radiator. you could argue the fact that the stock piping route intercoolers have their 'cold' pipe running right next to the 'hot' pipe for a distance so it would be heating up the cold pipe too. and it runs back over the exhaust manifold so there would be some heat radiating from there too.

Edited by mad082
the performance loss of having the piping across the top of the raiator is minimal as the air is travelling at a high speed. and if you have ever put your hand on that pipe after giving the car a good flogging you will find that it isn't that hot. the piping is about 2 inches from the radiator. you could argue the fact that the stock piping route intercoolers have their 'cold' pipe running right next to the 'hot' pipe for a distance so it would be heating up the cold pipe too. and it runs back over the exhaust manifold so there would be some heat radiating from there too.

The best ones i've seen run the outlet pipe from the cooler underneath the cooler itself and then back up on the passenger side.

Adrian

yeah but they are gennerally a fair bit more expensive, again, for not much more power. and if setup wrong they are worse. you have to make sure that the long pipe is from the turbo to the cooler, and the short pipe is going to the throttle body.

Edited by mad082

Since the topic of this thread is to try and find the best possible CAI system, has anyone modified the stock R33/R34 air box to allow maximum air induction??? Please post your pics or links

Cheers

Does anyone know the legal side of using a POD in NSW??? is it still a defect if its partitioned/boxed???

Cheers

well as far as the aftermaket air box concern, it's illegal to installed. I have just got ping for a POD with fully enclosure with al. sheet metal with internal lining. th induction noise is quiter than the stock but the police office and the EPA guy told me that anything that is not stock is illegal! :thumbsup:

yeah but they are gennerally a fair bit more expensive, again, for not much more power. and if setup wrong they are worse. you have to make sure that the long pipe is from the turbo to the cooler, and the short pipe is going to the throttle body.

Hi QRI05E, this is a sample on what a DIY CAI will look like. It block out the heat and get the job done with min cost.

Tupperware CAI box

Hahah nice one Trex, you can even keep your lunch in the engine bay now to keep it warm :D hahaha thats pretty clever... some of the pics make the CAI look like a stock filter box... thanks for that!

Cheers

Ha Ha...love it. Got HKS?...Go with the matching Tupperware

that looks more like an oil catch can to match an exedy clutch.

as for the template, are you just wanting a partition or a box system? if you are just wanting a partition, just get some thich cardboard and make one up. its not hard. just have to cut out 2 gaps for the intake pipes, and any for the intercooler pipes.

Edited by mad082

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...