Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: Nissan Skyline R33 Series II

Location: Rockhampton Queensland

Website: ??

Item Condition: Great Condition - cept for some minor dents (see description)

Reason for Selling: Family commitments, purchasing house. :P

Price and Payment Conditions: $19,000 ($18,500 without monitor and DVD).

Extra Info: Buying house and stuff. Must sell urgently !

Viper 3 Way Immobilising alarm system (with cool Viper flashing window thingy)

Greddy Plenum

Q45 Infinity Throttle Body

Apexi 260deg Cams

Apexi AX53B70 Turbo

Apexi GT Spec Intercooler with all custom stainless steel piping

Apexi Radiator Cap

Apexi Power FC (with Handcontroller)

Apexi Pen Timer (Ltd Black Edition)

Apexi 60mm Boost Gauge

Z32 Air Flow Meter

OS Geiken Twin Plate Clutch

Greddy Catch Can

3-3.5" Turbo Back Exhaust

Nismo 550cc Injectors

Nismo Fuel Pressure Reg

HKS SSQ Race Bov (good for 3 bar)

Bosch 040 Fuel Pump

Nismo Shift Knob

Bride Brix Black Drivers Seat on Bride Rails (Super Low)

Nardi Steering Wheel (Flat Bottom)

Blitz Spec S EBC

Strut Braces front and rear

GAB Height/Damper adjustable suspension

Sparco NR-1 Black 17" Alloys (8" Front (235/40/R17), 9" Rear (255/35/R17)) New tyres - plenty of tread

R33 GTR Cluster (carbon Fibre surround)

All windows tinted in Midnight Express Tint in January 2006.

Car made 325.1hp (242kw) at the wheels tuned by Mercury Motorsports.

Car is clean all over, 3 small dents in the passengers door and bonnet is slightly bent (new bonnet will come with vehicle).

2x HKS Gauges (ex temp and fuel pressure) will come with the car not fitted.

Always serviced every 5,000 kms using Castrol Synthetic R oils (Edge now).

I've owned the car since importing it into the country and have done all of the modifications to the vehicle.

I am located in Rockhampton Queensland and I will be able to post more pics as requested.

Car is VERY drivable, boosts nice and low, and gives power right through the rev range.

Gonna be sad to see her go actually :D

Note: I will NOT swap for anything less + cash. I am not a car yard. The ONLY thing I will consider swapping with is a clean VY Commodore (family, yes).

Please note: Stereo will NOT include the Headunit as this alone is worth $800.

post-15492-1149420066.jpg

post-15492-1149420125.jpg

post-15492-1149420176.jpg

Edited by Phat6
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120898-r33-series-2-modified-sold/
Share on other sites

Pretty sure you wouldn't be interested but would you consider a swap to a less modded s1 gts plus cash??

Also, do you have any interior shots- particularly of the gtr cluster- off topic but how did you get it to work on the gts since they apparenlty need recalibrating cos gtrs have a different diff ratio to gts.

Pretty sure you wouldn't be interested but would you consider a swap to a less modded s1 gts plus cash??

Also, do you have any interior shots- particularly of the gtr cluster- off topic but how did you get it to work on the gts since they apparenlty need recalibrating cos gtrs have a different diff ratio to gts.

Hello,

Nah, I wouldn't be interested in a swap ... sorry man ...

The GTR cluster was in it from Japan - so yeah ... I know it's accurate, cos the hand controller is reading the same as the needle :)

I'll see what I can do for a photo today ...

Edited by Phat6

Hi guys, it's my first post here, but I thought I would help a mate out.

Phat6 is a mate of mine and I can vouch for the quality of this car, very well modded and VERY nice power. No expense has been spared, only the best parts used.

$21,990 is cheap as chips for this car which has had mega $$$ spent on it - grab it while it's cheap!

too true dude this is awesome price for awesome car but maybe its just that most people at sau already own a skyline. Try alternate means of selling if you want to get rid of it.

I've got almost exactly the same setup in my R33. Same turbo, same cooler etc... I can vouch for the meaty midrange torque of this setup! Ultimately driveable on the street, and incredibly responsive! I'm sure whoever picks up this car will NOT be disappointed!

Good luck with the sale mate.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...