Jump to content
SAU Community

installing component speakers

Nozila

By Nozila,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

Nozila Grand Master

Nozila

Posted
Posted

hey guys, ive recently bought a pair of kicker splits and would like to know if any1 has done a DIY to their r33, in regards to installing them to the front doors. I havent attempted to take the door apart yet as im worried about breaking/pulling something apart particularly the drivers door. This is just the first step and Im alredy afraid to attempt it, also Im unsure of where to place tweeters one door is apart. Any help would be much appreciated.

dooky.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12095-installing-component-speakers/
Share on other sites
Darker Enthusiast

Darker

Posted
Posted

Recently bought an r33 and have done much that

Doors not too much of a drama to take off, have 3 or 4 screws around the base, a small screw in the armrest handle well covered (normally) by a cap that flicks out, and the handle cover itself (flick out, slide toward the back of the door)

Then comes the fun part of easing the panel off. Helps if you pull out the armrest handle inset (the little cuppy thing) but its not entirely easy to do (or im doing it wrong) The armrest controls have a cable that clips in/out, unclip it and you're done.

Ive mounted in Sony 6"s with a tweeter up on the backplate to the side mirror. Once the door panel is off it just pops out. Had the best sound result for me, but play around with it once you have the main speaker in for best result. Everyone's head is in a different spot.

Hope it helps

  • 1 year later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 years later...
R33__dRiFtR Apprentice

R33__dRiFtR

Posted
Posted
Just wanting to know how this went and wether any pics where taken? If so please post

SOMEONE HELP ME GET MY DOOR TRIMS OFF PLEASE....

I have un done the bottom screws along the bottom of the trim, flicked out the cover under the handle and unscrewed the large gold screw, and I have un screwed the pocket in the side door.

Only thing i think is left to do is remove the door unlock/lock handle surround, which i cannot get out and i am scared to break it HELP ASAP

raz0r$harP.UK Grand Master

raz0r$harP.UK

Posted
Posted

Take a butter knife (or similar) wrap a piece of cloth around it, and just lever it around the surround. There is just one clip you need to find and unclip to get it off.

Even if you just move the knife around you'll find it.

  • 1 month later...
RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

That handle surround CAN break, but just don't bend it too much, and eventually it'll come off. That's the only hard part of the whole damn job!

The doorskin hangs on the sill, so pull the bottom away from the door, then slide the whole thing up, off the sill.

  • 1 month later...
Mike5444 Rookie

Mike5444

Posted
Posted

so that's 4 gold screws on pass. side (1*pocket-handle, 1*door lock trim & 2*horizontal door handle)

2 gold screws on drv. side (1 *pocket-handle, 1*door lock trim)

3 black screws on bottom of door trims both sides

take off lock surrounds

take out all switches plus their surroundings

take out pocket-handles (careful)

take out clarion paper poo and replace

good fun :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • dawhitehonky
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By dawhitehonky · Posted

      I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • GTSBoy
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • GTSBoy
      Rapid-fire squeaking/creaking from rear suspension

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • GTSBoy
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...