Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

14.7 is the theoretical perfect afr

13.8 is generally the actual best for performance

U turbo guys run richer for safety, although unless something happens and he leans out further, it shouldn't kill his engine.

and 800+nm of torque is very possible, gear ratios multiply torque.

So say we he has a diff ratio of 3.8, and the 800 was measured in a gear with a ratio of 1:1. That results in 800/3.8 so 210nm of engine torque.

Boost_Junkie

For the past year or so i have been taking my car to EAS Performance, address is Victory Str, Airport West. Speak to Vic on 93302001, he is a pretty much a straight shooter. In my experience i have been pretty satisfied as he has guided me on what to and what not to do to the car. Most theoritical statements he made of preformance enhancements has been spot on when put to practice. Tell him Alan sent you (if you decide to contact him)

I will warn you now, the w/shop is not a display case. It is a functional shop to complete mechanical repaires/mods. The first time i walked in i almost walked out, but he was very helpful and willing to explain and answer any quires. And after talking to him for 1-2 hours i was confident that he knew his stuff, i have never looked elsewhere since. Just a note, he uses the dyno at the w/shop next door.

I know this sounds like i am affeliated to the business but i am honestly not. I have seen cars from discruntled customers from other w/shops bring their cars back to EAS, after being butchered.

Some of whome are mention above.

What you decide to do is up to you, good luck and i truely hope you find someone that will look after your baby!

PS: What does your car look like as i live in Delahey and wouldn't mind hooking up for a cruise.

My mate grets his car tuned at eas ,Its a blue vl calais (STOCK6) they do a okay job but i think there expensive.Anyway my car is a black 33 gts-t with 17inch sparco's (black with red dish) fmic with a cut up bumper,also not lowered.

Also about tunning my car for cruise ,Its my dads car during the day he drives it to work till he buys a new car.he took of today After i gutted the cat (***D)and it broke traction at about 40km and drifted !!,he shit and backdoff .lol

AH, i know Frank, have a chat every time i meet him at EAS. My car is pictured to the left, it's burgundy with 19" rims, a fmic and personialized plates. My bumper is also cut up, but i got it plastic welded to look stock and not get hassled by cops.

I think they are fairly resonable, but sometimes you have to pay for a neat and carefully thought through job.

Anyway hope to see ya around, and wave us down if ya see me.

C YA!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I neglected to respond to this previously. Get it up to 100 psi, and then you'll be OK.
    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
×
×
  • Create New...