Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

my gt3040 rocked up 2day and i put it on my manifold but it doesnt quite fit nice...its hitting on the rocker cover by a little bit so do you have to grind/sand a little bit away.....

get a spacer plate

would be much better

Thanks

RACESPEC SALES TEAM

lol have come across this problem before and i have seen some VERY VERY dodgy fixes before how ever found the easiest one was make a cut under the t3 flange.. bend flange down and weld up if you get wat i mean.. just leavers the flange away from the rocker cover a bit

by far the dodgiest fix ive ever seen for this was using 6 12mm spacer plates between the head and the manifold how ever didnt want to tell the moron that chose to go this way wat the effects would be on the way it will perform.. but how ever.. the guy is a f**kwit and its still running around with the 'spacers'

Quick question mate, have you tried rotating the compressor housing so it wont hit the rocker cover? I think you will find you just need to turn it around till it misses and you have sufficient clearance. Normally you would turn the housing around so the outlet is facing down towards the chassis rail.

I sell adaptor plates to suit stock manifold, they can run an external wastegate too :(

Umm... high mount would lead me to believe that this isnt a stock anifold application ;)

Oh, and this isnt the For Sale section... so dont advertise your "wares"

If its one of those cheap XS-Power high mount manifolds, i wouldnt be surprised, you will find that there is over 1.5mm bend on both the head side and turbo flange, as well as the turbo flange being at the wrong angle hence why your turbo is hitting the rocket cover! If you try bolting it on you will also notice that number 3 runner hits the exhaust stud. These manifolds are crap half made of mild steel i.e the flanges and the runners etc made of stainless hence why they crack, i hope you dont have one....ow and i forgot but the bolt holes for the manifold most probably will be out too you will have to grind out the holes on the manifold.

its ok i managed to figure it out it was dark when i did it last nite. it sits very very close to the engine i had to move the comp cover round a touch and its sweet as. and as for my manifold ive had it on there for a while now and it works fine and every thing lines up, i had my old turbo high mounted aswell but i blew that one up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...