Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yikes! A decent 11-plate Century battery shouldn't cost more than $120

You might need to make sure that you get one with the correct terminal-size, as the stock terminal clamps are both of the small size.

Just ask a decent mechanic where to get one. Don't get one from a crummy joint, as the battery has probably been sitting there for yonks. Maybe call Century batteries and ask them where and how much?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121465-r33-battery/#findComment-2239043
Share on other sites

Hi Dude

I was quite particular about the battery being a sealed unit as well and wanted to find one as close as to the original one that came with my R33 SII as well. Unfortunately to get one like the original jap one is virtaully impossible and even if I could I was told they cost about 3 time more in price

With this being the case I rang around got the low down on batteries and then spoke to a mob called Battery World and got a top of the range that was a sealed unit identical in size & with the breather hole.

It came to about $130 cash. I got them down in price by paying cash and to make sure that the battery was the same size I brought the original one down to compare.

It's been in the car for about a year and works just like a treat. To boot it came with a 3 year warranty as well

One other thing I found these days they don't refer to plates any more but cold cranking. I can't remeber what my was but at the time it was about the highest you could get.

So I suggest you ring around and get prices and make sure you get the best you can afford without being ripped.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121465-r33-battery/#findComment-2240174
Share on other sites

I got a 560cca euro style vented battery for my R33, all I had to do was buy a new hold down clamp. Don't ever use a non-vented battery, aside for the expolsive risk, it will rust your boot out. Saw an R33 GTR with the wrong battery with a big rust streak!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121465-r33-battery/#findComment-2252414
Share on other sites

ive got a fully sealed ROCKET battery. 13 row, 560cca with vents for $110.

got it from globe battery sales.. for anyone whos in syd the address is:

7 davies rd padstow.. you cant miss it, its got flashing lights outside it.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121465-r33-battery/#findComment-2256933
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All the best with it mate. Hopefully no dramas. I found quite a few issues when i pulled mine out eg fkt trans and engine mounts, throwout bearing, i had not been aware of, so 'any car maint' can be worthwhile it seems.
    • I think it's the alternator, there's some cracked shit going on with the rectifier. But so far, seems to be fine again? No sparks, no weird arcing when the leads went on. I ran this past a mate, he said he had similar issues before and his auto sparky replaced the alternator. All I know is, car works, car not on fire lol.
    • Brother-in-law's workshop. And I'll be doing. Family doesn't get priority over long running customer jobs. It wouldn't normally take so long to get to a task of mine, but there was a series of unfortunate events involving the dyno (blowing it up) that caused a serious backlog in the normal workload, that has toaken literally forever to get out from underneath. I can't do, or more to the point, choose not to do, jobs at home that require tools I don't have or would leave me without my daily if something goes wrong that thwarts me. Gearbox out on the floor with chassis stands is not palatable when I can use a hoist at the shop. But I've only had the box for a few weeks. It's the injectors and AFM that have been waiting on access to the dyno.
    • Thanks for mentioning it on the forums! Much appreciated Jen and I likely can't make it this weekend, but looking forward to see what you folks cook up in the future. Enjoy!
    • Welp, I have been driving it around (a bit) and messing with idle and return to idle characteristics. This is all well and good until I discovered my starter motor... is nearly dead. This is unfortunately after I booked my exhaust and tune in. This is the new section of my exhaust, after losing my mind with vbands and clamps. Yes I now have 4 mufflers. The two middle ones are 5in body 3in pipe round straight through mufflers or incorrectly named 'resonators' whatever you want to call. How does it sound? Muffled.   Car runs richer now in low load. Is it restriction? Or lack of exhaust leaks. I also figured out a way to make the Analog Readout match the serial WB Readout. All of this requires a car to you know.. *start* to tune the maths, which was not ideal when I needed it to get to the exhaust shop and back. It started when cold. 30 mins after the car got home, it was time to get stuck into it. Unfortunately this thing has no identifying marks on it at all. I contacted Mal Wood and asked if he could send me a replacement and he asked me to remove it because they've changed starters with their kits a few times over the years. I asked other companies with LH LS starter conversions and they all use different starters unique to their kits. I did find CAE performance supply Mal Wood - But they are out of stock for this starter for the next 3 weeks. The tune is booked for Friday 30th. Here's hoping the local starter motor repair place (which interestingly has a 5 star review from Trent @ Chequered) can get this rebuilt/sorted out so I can get it on and put the car on the dyno. Here's hoping!
×
×
  • Create New...