Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For Sale One set of HKS GT2540's Ball baring , oil cooled.

suit RB26.

Turbos are in excellent condition and with low klms still in the car at the moment

$3500

One set of HKS CAMS suit RB26

264 Degrees 10 ml lift

In excellent condition

$1000

$800 change over for standard Cams

Located in Melbourne

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12183-hks-gt2540s/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I may be interested in the second turbo. How does $1500 sound. I live in Melbourne and can inspect, pick-up and pay cash.

Can you please supply all specs related to these turbos, via PM or e-mail: [email protected]

-Does it bolt straight on to a RB25DET ex. manifold and plumbing mods are required?

-How old is it (km and months)?

-why are you selling it?

-What are the specs?

-Is it high or low mounted?

Thanks for your time and help. Hope to hear from you soon.

ALAN C.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12183-hks-gt2540s/#findComment-274692
Share on other sites

PM'd you the info

Here are some specs for anyone else interested

HKS GT2540 - 350 PS Output

COMPRESSOR:

-Wheel- 46 Trim - 51.7 Inducer / 76.2 Major

-Housing- 60 Inlet / 50 Outlet - 0.60 A/R

TURBINE:

-Wheel- 76 Trim - 53.8 Major / 47.0 Exducer

-Housing- T3 inlet / Internal Skyline Type oulet - 0.64 A/R

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12183-hks-gt2540s/#findComment-275166
Share on other sites

Sir Bean, 250 rwkw is 375 bhp, so the 350 bhp rating looks about right. HKS freely admit that their turbo ratings are about 10% less than what the turbo can actually do in an ideal situation ie; 350 bhp + 10% = 385 bhp.

Plus some dynos read more than others.

Hope that helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12183-hks-gt2540s/#findComment-277387
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 7 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...