Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For Sale One set of HKS GT2540's Ball baring , oil cooled.

suit RB26.

Turbos are in excellent condition and with low klms still in the car at the moment

$3500

One set of HKS CAMS suit RB26

264 Degrees 10 ml lift

In excellent condition

$1000

$800 change over for standard Cams

Located in Melbourne

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12183-hks-gt2540s/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I may be interested in the second turbo. How does $1500 sound. I live in Melbourne and can inspect, pick-up and pay cash.

Can you please supply all specs related to these turbos, via PM or e-mail: [email protected]

-Does it bolt straight on to a RB25DET ex. manifold and plumbing mods are required?

-How old is it (km and months)?

-why are you selling it?

-What are the specs?

-Is it high or low mounted?

Thanks for your time and help. Hope to hear from you soon.

ALAN C.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12183-hks-gt2540s/#findComment-274692
Share on other sites

PM'd you the info

Here are some specs for anyone else interested

HKS GT2540 - 350 PS Output

COMPRESSOR:

-Wheel- 46 Trim - 51.7 Inducer / 76.2 Major

-Housing- 60 Inlet / 50 Outlet - 0.60 A/R

TURBINE:

-Wheel- 76 Trim - 53.8 Major / 47.0 Exducer

-Housing- T3 inlet / Internal Skyline Type oulet - 0.64 A/R

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12183-hks-gt2540s/#findComment-275166
Share on other sites

Sir Bean, 250 rwkw is 375 bhp, so the 350 bhp rating looks about right. HKS freely admit that their turbo ratings are about 10% less than what the turbo can actually do in an ideal situation ie; 350 bhp + 10% = 385 bhp.

Plus some dynos read more than others.

Hope that helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12183-hks-gt2540s/#findComment-277387
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 7 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
    • Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit. 
    • Alright so my 32 only has one temperature no matter what degree you set it to. I’ve tried disconnecting the servo motor arm and moving it either direction and got no change. I’ve fixed the leak in my AC and re charged it and with it on and clutch engaged it still blows hot even though the low pressure pipe going to the firewall is ice cold. Both heater core hoses are hot while running as well. Diagnostic code showed 24 for intake air temperature sensor. Anybody got any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...