Jump to content
SAU Community

Different Tyre Widths

simor32
 Share

Recommended Posts

simor32 Community Regular

simor32

Posted
Posted

hey guys ive been having some problems with my wheels they are 20 inch 225/35/20 i got new tyres put on and the front inner tryes rub on the strut and have worn the insides abit and make driving very annyoing and smelling smoke is pisin me off. ive decided to get 19s or 18s instead. the guards had been fully prepped for 20s rolled and wat not so if i get smaller rims will this problem go away. also i would like to get wider tryes like 235s will this be okay.

cheers :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121875-different-tyre-widths/
Share on other sites
DaFuca Enthusiast

DaFuca

Posted
Posted

Sounds to me like the height of the tyre is too much..

Are the tyres rubbing on the edge or on the tread? I know it is in the very corner, but you should be able to see by the wear if it is from the bottom of the strut or the side of the strut. if it is from the bottom of the strut then your tyres would be too tall,

I would stick with the 20's and I would see about getting some tyres in maybe a 225x30x20 same width just a little bit smaller in height,

but if it is rubbing ont he side of the strut, then the height is fine, but the width is prolly too much, seeif you can look into some 215x40x20's they should be around the palce, but you will prolly be paying a bit for them.

Cant give you a rough price at the moment, cos im not at work.. I will check tuesday morning and get back to you.

simor32 Community Regular

simor32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah umm the struts arnet stock they are aftermarket so i dnt no if this changes anythin but, the inside of the tyre is rubbing. Yes the inside corner of the tread is rubbing on the top of the strut no the side its the inside tread thats wearing. cheers man like u said if u can get bak to me it would be great. this only happens on front tryes not rear. oh yeah my car is r32gtst

DaFuca Enthusiast

DaFuca

Posted
Posted

yeah but on the inside of the tyre where it is rubbing, you will see rub marks on the strut, have a look if it rubbing the strut on the side or on the bottom of the strut plate? this way you can tell if your tyres are too tall or too wide.

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted

I've got 18" onthe fron of mine. 235/35. So if you go 235 at the front on 18''s, shouldnt have any issues.

I've got 265/35/18 at the back.

I think 19" are ok too, but not sure of the width you could fit.

Someone with 19"s let us know?

MerlinTheHapyPig Mentor

MerlinTheHapyPig

Posted
Posted

well, fitting 20's on any car is gonna have problems!

why do you need rims that big?? it's just stupid...

Your problem will be due to the profile of the tyre being too high (e.g. rolling diameter is too big) - if it's rubbing on the top of the tyre

Or.

offset of the wheels isn't low enough and it's rubbing on the side wall of the tyres

pick whatever size tyre suits the rims you buy (diameter and width of rim), make sure the rims you buy are in the correct offset...

n15m0 Grand Master

n15m0

Posted
Posted

assuming ur tyre plc recommended correct tyres ie: keeping the rolling diameter the same or close to stock, your problem will be wheel offset. Especially when you have aftermarket coilovers. You will need to find a wheel with lower offset ie: move the wheel further away from the struts. But as said before above...stick with 18s and you won't have much problems...

DaFuca Enthusiast

DaFuca

Posted
Posted

is why i suggested same width but dropping the profile down a little bit. that way it will bring the rolling diam. closer to factory.

But yes 20s on any car ca some times be a struggle, only because as they step up in size, they step out in size to make the strenght of the rim the same (or in some cases similar).

DaFuca Enthusiast

DaFuca

Posted
Posted

The offset of a wheel is determined by the distance from the back of the wheel where the breaks bold up to. to the back bead of the rim.

So if you lay the rim face down, and measure the distance from where the wheel bolts up to the back bead, then that is the offset (backspace) it will also allow you to work out if there is enough inside clearance from your break (studs) to your struts.

Follow that link, should help you more.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
...then that is the offset (backspace)
Those are 2 different measurements. BACKSPACE is the actual distance from the inner rim of the wheel to the mounting face. OFFSET is the distance from the (vertical) centre of the rim to the mounting face.

BACKSPACE is always +ve. OFFSET can be +ve or -ve (Skylines, and most modern cars, run +ve offset).

(PS, it's BRAKES, not BREAKS!)

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
hey guys ive been having some problems with my wheels they are 20 inch 225/35/20 i got new tyres put on and the front inner tryes rub on the strut and have worn the insides abit and make driving very annyoing and smelling smoke is pisin me off. ive decided to get 19s or 18s instead. the guards had been fully prepped for 20s rolled and wat not so if i get smaller rims will this problem go away. also i would like to get wider tryes like 235s will this be okay.

cheers :D

A 35 profile tyre on 20" rims on a Skyline is FAARR TOOO TAALLL.

As a rule-of-thumb, for each 1" wheel diameter change, the profile changes by 10. Most Skylines run a 17" rim with a 45 profile tyre. You are running a 20" rim - 3" bigger - which means you should only be running a 15 profile tyre. That basically amounts to "wrap a strip of rubber around the rim, and call it a tyre". With such a small sidewall, the car will handle like crap. And a car that doesn't handle is a car that isn't safe.

An 18" rim is the biggest I would fit to a Skyline (I actually run 17s).

n15m0 Grand Master

n15m0

Posted
Posted
A 35 profile tyre on 20" rims on a Skyline is FAARR TOOO TAALLL.

As a rule-of-thumb, for each 1" wheel diameter change, the profile changes by 10. Most Skylines run a 17" rim with a 45 profile tyre. You are running a 20" rim - 3" bigger - which means you should only be running a 15 profile tyre. That basically amounts to "wrap a strip of rubber around the rim, and call it a tyre". With such a small sidewall, the car will handle like crap. And a car that doesn't handle is a car that isn't safe.

An 18" rim is the biggest I would fit to a Skyline (I actually run 17s).

Not to mention the crap quality ride having only tht much rubber between the road and the wheel...u might as well be running on rims only :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wazmond
      WGNC34 Rear springs

      By Wazmond · Posted

      Try looking at Eibacb/H&R springs Thats what Gary sourced for mine.
    • AdiR34
      Fender flare widths across front/back of car

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • GTSBoy
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • dbm7
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By dbm7 · Posted

      All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
×
×
  • Create New...