Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thats why I had no idea what you were on about. I still have all the crap installed, but before I fixed it the steering rack solenoid was disconnected, same as removing the hicas module. The electrical signal going to the power steering modulation solenoid, the one on the steering rack, comes from the hicas module, without the module, you get no signal, so you get no solenoid actuation, which means you have permanently heavy steering.. Which you obviously like, but I don't.. Each to their own. Unless you have another way of powering the solenoid or swapping in a non assisted rack.

fim using a r33 rack and lines. however the hicas ecu would control the solenoids so if you earth the solenoid out it will stay open, however that may cause the solenoid to burn out over time.

depends on your setup mate, for most r32's you'd leave the ecu in.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

I'm just trying to swap a single hicas tie rod (ball joint is shagged) so I can pass regency. To just replace one do I need to take the boots off both side and lock a shifter on one side so that it doesn't spin when I undo the other side?

Because I tried just undoing one side and it cracked but just keeps turning, it is however quite hard to turn (needs both arms) but it doesn't appear to be loosening off. Just want to know before I go out and buy a second shifter.

Cheers.

  • 4 years later...

fim using a r33 rack and lines. however the hicas ecu would control the solenoids so if you earth the solenoid out it will stay open, however that may cause the solenoid to burn out over time.

depends on your setup mate, for most r32's you'd leave the ecu in.

^^^^

How do you do this exactly? I'm not the best at electronic lingo yet. But is it as simple as jumpering two pins at the end of the connector that would have gone into my missing hicas ecu? Does anybody know the wire colors if thats the process<<<? Thanks for the help. Also sorry for bumping this old thread.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...