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Thats why I had no idea what you were on about. I still have all the crap installed, but before I fixed it the steering rack solenoid was disconnected, same as removing the hicas module. The electrical signal going to the power steering modulation solenoid, the one on the steering rack, comes from the hicas module, without the module, you get no signal, so you get no solenoid actuation, which means you have permanently heavy steering.. Which you obviously like, but I don't.. Each to their own. Unless you have another way of powering the solenoid or swapping in a non assisted rack.

fim using a r33 rack and lines. however the hicas ecu would control the solenoids so if you earth the solenoid out it will stay open, however that may cause the solenoid to burn out over time.

depends on your setup mate, for most r32's you'd leave the ecu in.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

I'm just trying to swap a single hicas tie rod (ball joint is shagged) so I can pass regency. To just replace one do I need to take the boots off both side and lock a shifter on one side so that it doesn't spin when I undo the other side?

Because I tried just undoing one side and it cracked but just keeps turning, it is however quite hard to turn (needs both arms) but it doesn't appear to be loosening off. Just want to know before I go out and buy a second shifter.

Cheers.

  • 4 years later...

fim using a r33 rack and lines. however the hicas ecu would control the solenoids so if you earth the solenoid out it will stay open, however that may cause the solenoid to burn out over time.

depends on your setup mate, for most r32's you'd leave the ecu in.

^^^^

How do you do this exactly? I'm not the best at electronic lingo yet. But is it as simple as jumpering two pins at the end of the connector that would have gone into my missing hicas ecu? Does anybody know the wire colors if thats the process<<<? Thanks for the help. Also sorry for bumping this old thread.

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