Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bump.

Come on guys I need to know if its necessary for my engine to run.

From what I can tell my after market computor isnt even plugged into it anyway.

Do I need to plum it in or not?

What throtte body are you using?

:D cheers :wub:

Im using an XF throttle body and also my computor dosent run a throttle position switch/sensor.

Its an EMS stinger if that helps.

The common solution is to use a throttle stop on the XF throttle body to control the idle rpm and piss off all of the ECU controlled idle speed hardware.

:D cheers :wub:

I ran my rb20 without it for a year or so. Started and idled fine, it would just stall approaching the same speed hump every morning :D

So i got in the habit of clutch starting it once past the speedhump and it was happy to keep going after that.

The common solution is to use a throttle stop on the XF throttle body to control the idle rpm and piss off all of the ECU controlled idle speed hardware.

:D cheers :wub:

Could you please elaborate on this sydneykid?

Are you saying not to run any of them including the two on the back of the plenum?

Thanks.

Could you please elaborate on this sydneykid?

Are you saying not to run any of them including the two on the back of the plenum?

Thanks.

You need to talk to your EMS tuner, as to how he wants to control the idle rpm. The standard RB20/25 throttle body closes completely. So the standard ECU (and Power FC) controls the idle rpm by opening and closing various valves that bypass the throttle body. So when it is cold the ECU advances the ignition, richens up the A/F ratios and increases the airflow into the engine to increase the base rpm and give stable idle. Similarly, when the engine is up to operating temperature, the ECU increases the airflow into the engine to increase the rpm for air conditioning, power steering and electrical load.

I haven’t studied the idle control circuitry in great detail, but my simplistic understanding is the ECU open up various different sized valves depending on the idle speed demand for air flow. This is different to many other engines that use a stepper motor to open the throttle butterfly to achieve the airflow changes required.

The EMS’s that I have dealt with don’t have the feature of staged valve openings to control idle to a number of preset rpm's. So the tuners tend to use a throttle stop to hold the throttle butterfly open, then use A/F ratios and ignition retard/advance to achieve idle stability, hot or cold.

So talking to your tuner is always first on the list when looking at idle speed control

:D cheers :wub:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...