Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All EDGE products besides the 25W50 are judged as 'Fully synthetic' by the boys at Castrol althought the API Group III and IV compositions may vary throughout the range. This could explain the price differences.

I also wonder what Cubes means by tunnelling in reference to oil filters.

Oh SANDY, I wouldn't change the oil filter. Just leave it until the next time you do another oil change! No point throwing it away..

Yer no point changing the filter...

Its just that I would tend to steer clear of the ryco's after I cut one open. :D

What I mean by tunneling is the filter media in sections blows open while the other pleats of the media stay close together.

The oil then only flows through these blown open sections of the media.

I got the word tunneling from doing a little search after I cut the filter open as I was a little concerned how the media looked.

This isn't the link I origionally found but it fits the bill... Has pics also. :nyaanyaa:

http://www.aus-cartalk.com/auspoc/techstuff.htm

So, for a 33 GTST that rarely gets a good opening, majority of trips are short (about 5-10kms) and pretty much doesnt get driven all that much, would the 10-60 be too thick?

Because i am using the 10-60 in my car now and i find that 2kms down the 5km trip, the temp on the my car has only just started to climb.

So would the 5-30 be a better go? Also would it handle the once in a long while thrashing and the occasional longer trip about 100kms?

yes, the tunneling is a problem. i only used genuine nissan filters in the past, but now use nismo veruspeed ones, or Greddy ones. also tried sard one, and power enterprise mag II.

yes, the tunneling is a problem. i only used genuine nissan filters in the past, but now use nismo veruspeed ones, or Greddy ones. also tried sard one, and power enterprise mag II.

lol they sound like rice filters. are u sure they arent rebadged rycos k&ns or something? why did u change to using them (apart from perhaps picking them up cheap from somewhere)

well I changed from using Genuine nissan filters for 2 reasons:

1. the greddy, nismo etc, claim increased flow and stronger relief valves (important as i run high oil pres) and some have magnets inside too, and I bought a whole lot in japan for reasonable price.

2. they are nicely coloured and say stuff on them like "Nismo" or "Greddy racing" etc and being mounted up high on my Grex remote filter mount presentation is important.

so yes, they are ricey. :P

nothing wrong with genuine nissan filters, and if i didn't have a fair stock of these I would use them instead.

I have heard of oil filter tunnelling supposedly being a problem, but logic tells me that it isn’t really a problem at all. My reasoning;

1. If the convolutions bow out, the theory is the oil finds the path of least resistance and flows though that area. But that assumes that the bow out area has the least resistance, but logic (and testing) tells me it doesn’t. It’s the same thickness filter media, same filtering specification, so why should the resistance be less? The answer is, it isn’t less, it’s exactly the same.

2. If (for some reason that I can’t logically determine) the oil does flow through the bow out area, it will eventually be contaminated first by the filtered particles. Hence it will no longer be the path of least resistance. Then the oil will simply flow though the other parts of the filter media. ie, one part of the filter will get dirtier quicker. So what? Natural hydraulic flow will ensure that happens, regardless of any tunnelling.

3. The dirty oil caused by tunnelling also tests my logic, why would the oil be dirtier when it flows though the tunnelling area? It’s the same thickness filter media, same filtering specification, so why should the filter quality be any less? The answer is, it isn’t less, it’s exactly the same.

So, until I see something that contradicts the logic, I am not inclined to believe that tunnelling is an issue.

:D cheers ;)

So, for a 33 GTST that rarely gets a good opening, majority of trips are short (about 5-10kms) and pretty much doesnt get driven all that much, would the 10-60 be too thick?

Because i am using the 10-60 in my car now and i find that 2kms down the 5km trip, the temp on the my car has only just started to climb.

So would the 5-30 be a better go? Also would it handle the once in a long while thrashing and the occasional longer trip about 100kms?

I'd give the 5W30 a go. Since your car doesn't properly warm up, the 10W60 will still be very thick. I wouldn't be suprised if your fuel economy was a little better with the 5W30 too.

  • 3 weeks later...

Nothing will "happen" as such. You may notice better fuel economy/engine responsiveness or less noise on cold starts... *depending* on what you've been using in the past. It should also easily go the distance. Ie 10,000km oil changes, providing you don't do track days etc.

Nothing will "happen" as such. You may notice better fuel economy/engine responsiveness or less noise on cold starts... *depending* on what you've been using in the past. It should also easily go the distance. Ie 10,000km oil changes, providing you don't do track days etc.

???

you should encourage people to change their oil every 5000km or every 6months whichever comes sooner. The oil might be alright for 10k but i'm sure most people drive pretty enthusiastically so it can only be good for the car to have more frequent oil changes :)

i change mine every 4k no track days but i do enjoy the touge action :)

anything over about 3grand or max oil pressure most of the oil is diverted through the relief valves. (all 4 of them)

all oil filters use the same media. if its a paper one. they atre made to meet cirtan industry standards.

the diferance is the "anti drainback valve" and the sealing flange gasket material.

yeah castrol egde prducts are as follows..

edge ow-40=castrol slx (synthetic)

edge 5w30=castrol txt softec " "

edge 10w60=formular R " "

edge 25w50=GP50 (mineral)

they were re labled to apeal to the younger car enthusiast.

:)

???

you should encourage people to change their oil every 5000km or every 6months whichever comes sooner. The oil might be alright for 10k but i'm sure most people drive pretty enthusiastically so it can only be good for the car to have more frequent oil changes :)

i change mine every 4k no track days but i do enjoy the touge action ;)

Well theres no problem changing out the oil sooner besides a lighter wallet. But half one of a synthetics's big advantages is because they have the capability of handling longer oil intervals than mineral oils. Take a look in USA for example, they market M1 "EP" which is guaranteed for 15,000 *miles*. So I believe 10,000km is suitable for most engines using a good quality synthetic, providing they are in good condition, don't run excessively rich or have heaps of blow by or don't see track use. Looking at hundreds of posted oil analysis's over the few past years has provided me with this conclusion. Remember just by looking at the oil doesn't really tell you anything.

If you want to drain out $90 every 6 months by all means.. just seems like a bit of a waste thats all.

T04GTR, I'm very sure oil filters do not use the same media. Sure they are cellulose but its like saying all engine oils are the same because they are liquids. There are definitely the better and worse ones out there. Also I don't think EDGE 5W30 is TXT softec because it does not have all of Softec's OEM approvals eg BMW-LL 01... unless you can find some data to prove otherwise but yeah.

Edited by Busky2k

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Nah that is not actually a lot. Just painting my GTR frontend and the little bits to make sideskirts/nismo flare pieces work correctly/fit on the sedan/mount up correctly came to about $7000. Is it a lot? Sure. None of this is economical. Economy would be shelling the car and buying a 2010 Corolla to commute in. The perspective of all of this is different.
    • I have the re003s’ on my 06 XT Forester Turbo and I highly rate them for street wet and dry
    • I don't see any issues here. I've been saying all along this is a big job, the price reflects that.  When the car comes back perfect I'm sure it will feel like money well spent. 
    • Remember, take original quote. Double it. Then add a bit more. It's how any project goes.
    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
×
×
  • Create New...