Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well it's time to sell my baby, thinking of buying a new car.

It's an R32 GTS-t an an unusual Grey colour 2-door coupe as you can see. I am the first owner in Australia so it has been well taken care of. I recently had a Vertex bodykit fitted to this baby and sprayed (came out awesome). The car rolls on 18" G-Max DEEP dish rims in Shadow Chrome with Chrome Dish, and are stopped by high-performance brake pads with cross-drilled discs. The car is equipped with a DVD/MP3 player, hooked up to a TV... all powered by a Kicker Amp+Sub with Pioneer speakers all-around. Has Nismo Seat-Belt pads and i'm currently on the hunt for Nismo seat-covers to complete the look of a beautiful car.

The car has ALWAYS been well looked after as my cousin is a mobile-mechanic and regularly services the car and teaks everything to perfection. I have a hybrid-copy Intercooler + Piping, with a HKS 3" turbo-back Exhaust. YES... original HKS turbo-back exhaust with the Carbon-Fibre look from the outside. It sounds very quiet from inside the car so no headaches, but gives a loud roar from outside and looks MASSIVE up close. I bought a Heavy-Duty Cussion-Plate Exceddy Clutch for the car and got it professionally fitted along with flywheel machined. The car has a Blitz pod-filter, and a turbo straight out of an R33 thats almost brand new. The RB25 turbo has only been in for about a week and i still have the excellent condition RB20 turbo packed away. It constantly runs on about 9-10psi without boosting anything... just the modifications. An autometer sports-comp boost gauge was fitted inside the cabin.

I purchased a brand new battery for the car about a month ago as the battery died at the Panel-Beater's while fitting the bodykit. It also has a turbo-timer fitted so discreetly next to the steering wheel that most people wont even notice it. Car is fitted with an alarm/immobiliser with remote-startup. Car has always been started for at least 10 minutes every morning before driven (thats where the remote startup comes in handy).

Looking for around the $13,500 mark with AS IS... Plates and all!

Registration runs out in April 2007 so plenty of time. Number plates are STAWKA (stalker) if the buyer is from Melbourne. Have a clean record with Police so no need to worry, any checks are welcome.

Contact Manny on 0434-64-1177 or [email protected] or just leave a PM. Buyer will not be disappointed.

post-16806-1151210633.jpgpost-16806-1151210656.jpgpost-16806-1151210668.jpgpost-16806-1151210678.jpgpost-16806-1151210694.jpgpost-11094-1126509278.jpgpost-16806-1151210685.jpgpost-16806-1151293028.jpg

post-16806-1151210702.jpg

Edited by stawka
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123652-another-price-drop/
Share on other sites

Yeah it was my bad. I put every single detail in there except the Price. Then i went over it and realised there was no price lol. Thanx guys

Forgot to add, will trade for another car + cash... make an offer

Edited by stawka

gday mate

you have a pm about the sale of your car!

if you copuld reply back that would be appreciated

cheers

bump for a very nice ride and tough looking 32!

good luck with sale man...very nice 32 :D

Thanx dude appreciate it. Reguarding that GTR... I WISH i could afford it. The only reason i'm selling my 32 is because i no longer have my part-time job and i'm looking for another... my baby's gotta go unless i find a job soon. Will consider trade's + cash my way

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
ey man, how much will you let it go for with out Kicker Amp+Sub with Pioneer speakers, and wheels,

also where abouts are you?

thanks

Hey dude. I'll sell for $12,000 without the Amp+Sub+ Rims. The speakers are mounted in where the standard speakers are so no point taking them out man. I said $12,500 without the rims, i'll take $500 off for the Sub+Amp or i'll be losing too much money. The car is a bargain as it is man. Also, i'm from Melbourne, Tullamarine about 5 minutes from the Airport

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...