Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just finished replacing my old high flow witha td06

everything went fine when i kicked it over apart from 1 problem, when i turned it over the turbo was making a scrapping noise. almost like a duck noise

it was consistent for the 1min then i turned it off

i installed a 34 row oil cooler and oil filter relocator but didnt do anything to pump oil through them 1st.

could this be the cause??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123705-turbo-scrapping-noise/
Share on other sites

update..

i move the front wheel with just my fingers and every so often it would scrape finely, but not on every revoloution..

i'm not thinking it could be the front housing,

at one stage i had it off to adjust the IC piping but i would think the circlip would lock it in place??

is it possible to be off center??

yeah it souinds like the comp wheel is scraping on the inside of the comp cover or shaft itself. ive got a shagged t28 on my desk at work which suffered exhaust wheel failure and it scrapes when you rotate it (ableit it has no active oil feed). it has a bit of shaft play, but obvious grinding/scraping

TD06... Trust... there should be shaft play dude.

Its bush bearing.

Much more than a Ball Bearing core.

Side-to-side there should be minor movement. In-n-out there shouldnt be play though.

The housing "might" be off centre, although i would doubt it.

Take the turbo off, dont start it again till you've taken off the housing to inspect it properly.

If the housing does seem ok, feed a bit of oil through it, and get a compressor to blow the turbine around and observe what it does.

Best you can do DIY @ home really as the housing touching isnt a good sign

Well first of all. Take the turbo off and remove the housigns and inspect the insides and the wheels. You ahve had them apart for the the ceramic coating, did you polish the compressor cover? Make sure the circlip is driven all the way home on the compressor cover.

While your at it make cure the v-band clamp is tight and alignment ok. They shoudl be fine as they drive themselves home as you tighten them...but still worth a look.

Next is once its all back in place then i would pull the oil supply line off the turbo and put it into a 2L bottle of coke etc. Pull the plug off the ingtier module and turn the car over. Keep going until you get a good bit of oil in the bottle. I used soem machine oil directly inside my housing to give it a bit of lubrication on first start up.

Juts make sure the bottle is clean so when you are done you cna just pour it back inot the engine.

Fingers crossed its just a bit of mislagignment with the circlip not seatd properly.

Worst case, hmm. if the compressor is damaged then send the turbo off for a rebuild and throw a GT30 compressor on it.

So your oil retuen line has a banjo bolt? Mine just had a tube stub that i pushed the hose over and hose clamped into position.

The oil feed is the banjo bolt off the block that goes to the top of the engine, well in my case anyway.

Im not sure how criticla it is, but oil returns are meant to be pretty direct and as smooth a curvature as possible (basically free draining)

My oil feed runs all over the shop as well, i dont think (hope :D ) its so critical.

Anyway, im probably just reading the pic wrong

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...