Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone,

My friend has a R33 with a 3inch exhaust and runs 12 pound on it. He hollowed out his cat and installed a dump pipe on the weekend. Said it pulls heaps harder but at 4000-5000 it seems to hold and then kicks in again. Anyone think they know why and have any suggestions to avoid this.

He has no electronic boost controller or FMIC either. any help would be appreciated.

hollowed out cats create more back pressure than a normal cat..proven

i doubt its the dump pipe.

What drugs are you tripping on?

Proven that hollow is less backpressure... if anything.

12psi stock cooler is just silly behaviour. Its probably 15psi+ before the cooler and i'd say the turbo is going to die very shortly if he keeps that up

The problem is this, its just Rich & Retard mode. Use the search button. Common problem on a boosted skyline with a stock ECU

how does that worK ??

because the air instead of passing straight through, swirls around in the now empty cat, causing turbulance and slowing the air flow through it..

better to get a cat replacement pipe made up, or smashing a piece of pipe the right dia through the old hollowed out cat, so its basically a pieve of pipe inside and not a hollow chamber..

Hi Everyone,

My friend has a R33 with a 3inch exhaust and runs 12 pound on it. He hollowed out his cat and installed a dump pipe on the weekend. Said it pulls heaps harder but at 4000-5000 it seems to hold and then kicks in again. Anyone think they know why and have any suggestions to avoid this.

He has no electronic boost controller or FMIC either. any help would be appreciated.

ECU rich and retard mapping due to excessive airflow as sensed by the AFM.

:glare: cheers :laugh:

PS, write 50 times.........

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

There is no such thing as boost cut

.

ECU rich and retard mapping due to excessive airflow as sensed by the AFM.

when it kicks in it certainly feels like a boost cut, cause it dies completely then kicks back in.

is it a sudden stop start, or a flat spot where acceleration slows for a bit. if it is a sudden cut out then it is 'boost cut'. if it is just a slow spot then it could be the cams changing over. there is a thread on it somewhere on here, and how you can change when it does it slightly with an aftermarket ecu.

.

when it kicks in it certainly feels like a boost cut, cause it dies completely then kicks back in.

is it a sudden stop start, or a flat spot where acceleration slows for a bit. if it is a sudden cut out then it is 'boost cut'. if it is just a slow spot then it could be the cams changing over. there is a thread on it somewhere on here, and how you can change when it does it slightly with an aftermarket ecu.

Boost cut = 2 words “boost” and “cut”

Boost = The R33GTST ECU has no idea what boost the engine is receiving, it doesn’t do anything about boost, it doesn’t care.

Cut = reduce to zero

Reduce what to zero?

Fuel, nope the ECU doesn’t do that

Ignition, nope the ECU doesn’t do that either.

What you are describing is excessive airflow as sensed by the AFM. When the ECU sees excessive airflow for the rpm and throttle opening it moves to Rich and Retarded mapping. This is done to protect the engine from what the ECU thinks are faulty sensor reading. Either the TPS or the rpm sensor or the AFM (or all three) are reading incorrectly based on the ECU’s programming.

Note the words used “When the ECU sees excessive airflow for the rpm and throttle opening its moves to rich and retarded mapping.” That is why you get a drop in power (R&R mapping) just after the boost has peaked. This goes on for a few hundred RPM, then the sensor readings (the TPS, rpm sensor and AFM) start to line up again. So the ECU returns to more normal (non R&R) mapping.

This is even more proof that there is no such thing as “boost cut”, otherwise it would stay “cut” for as long as the boost was high. But it doesn’t.

Repeat after me;

There is no such thing as boost cut………….

:D cheers :wub:

i call it boost cut cause its easier than saying rich and retard mode.

slightly off subject, does the stock ecu have a map sensor? there is a box in the back corner of the engine bay on the drivers side with a vacuum hose hooked up, and wires coming out the other end. what is it for?

Edited by mad082

in the name of correct terminology, and correct information on the forum.

Its Rich and Retard.

There is no point calling it boost cut... if is not boost cut.

That is incorrect. The forums are hear as a source of accurate information to help those that are having problems or need extra help.

Are you an enthusiast? Do you even care about the accuracy of your posts?

well everyone calls the skylines with the active diff a 'GTS-T with an active lsd' when they are really called a 'LSTS'. and my source for that is an article in a HPI mag (as well as various websites i found in japanese and translated).

and does it really matter if it gets called boost cut, or rich and retard mode? i doubt that there is someone out there who will read this and think 'i couldn't get rid of my boost cut without changing my ecu, but now that i know its only rich and retard mode i can fix that no worries'.

at the end of the day it is a different name for the same thing. the are plenty of things on this site going by the wrong name.

Edited by mad082
well everyone calls the skylines with the active diff a 'GTS-T with an active lsd' when they are really called a 'LSTS'. and my source for that is an article in a HPI mag (as well as various websites i found in japanese and translated).

and does it really matter if it gets called boost cut, or rich and retard mode? i doubt that there is someone out there who will read this and think 'i couldn't get rid of my boost cut without changing my ecu, but now that i know its only rich and retard mode i can fix that no worries'.

at the end of the day it is a different name for the same thing. the are plenty of things on this site going by the wrong name.

The problem is when someone is told it is a “boost cut” problem the first thing they think is there is some hard and fast boost limit that they can’t exceed. Then we get silly stuff like;

1. I have been told I can run 1 bar before I will get “boost cut”, is that OK?

2. My mate runs 12 psi and doesn’t get “boost cut” and I run 11 psi and get “boost cut”, why ?

3. Something is wrong with my engine I get “boost cut” at 10 psi ?

4. GTR’s don’t get "boost cut" until 1.1 bar, so why do GTST’s get "boost cut" at 11 psi ?

and 100 more equally wrong questions per week, every week.

The reality is we need to get people on SAU talking about excessive airflow, boost is irrelevant. So if the regular posters don’t use “boost cut” and use the correct terminology then eventually we won’t have to spend time writing explanations as to what it really is and why boost is irelevant

:rofl: cheers :P

Edited by Sydneykid
because the air instead of passing straight through, swirls around in the now empty cat, causing turbulance and slowing the air flow through it..

better to get a cat replacement pipe made up, or smashing a piece of pipe the right dia through the old hollowed out cat, so its basically a pieve of pipe inside and not a hollow chamber..

That doesn't answer my question - the post read:

"hollowed out cats create more back pressure than a normal cat..proven"

Which is rubbish.

I can prove you you that with a (brand new catco 3") cat - my skyline made 289rwkw - with a elcheapo compliance cat hollowed out - it made 330rwkw - (only under test conditions on the dyno of course).

The problem is when someone is told it is a “boost cut” problem the first thing they think is there is some hard and fast boost limit that they can’t exceed. Then we get silly stuff like;

1. I have been told I can run 1 bar before I will get “boost cut”, is that OK?

2. My mate runs 12 psi and doesn’t get “boost cut” and I run 11 psi and get “boost cut”, why ?

3. Something is wrong with my engine I get “boost cut” at 10 psi ?

4. GTR’s don’t get "boost cut" until 1.1 bar, so why do GTST’s get "boost cut" at 11 psi ?

and 100 more equally wrong questions per week, every week.

The reality is we need to get people on SAU talking about excessive airflow, boost is irrelevant. So if the regular posters don’t use “boost cut” and use the correct terminology then eventually we won’t have to spend time writing explanations as to what it really is and why boost is irelevant

:D cheers :laugh:

Totally agree as there are ECU's which "boost cut" (subaru, ford,toyota) and there are ECU's which reach a predefined "airflow limit" usually vs rpm (mitsubishi, nissan,GM).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...