Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys ive recently bought a r33 gts t

im new to these cars and the a lsd light comes on sumtimes for no reason as far as i know can any one help me with this is this a common problem and also are there certain hydraulic pumps and computers to check for the lsd or anything like this any info would be great cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123814-a-lsd/
Share on other sites

Yes skylines can have an A-lsd light.

It means you have an active spec LSD version of the skyline.

Run some searches there's a shipload of info on this site about the A-Lsd.

As for it intermitently turning on. Do you have a power-fc? If you do I strongly suggest you look at the signature of a guy on here called PaulR33 as this is a fault that happens with the A-lsd failing and power fc's, but he's got the cure (read: DIY) to fix the problem.

If you don't have an Power FC.

Perhaps a fault with your abs sensors or the computer itself, or the hydralics, or a lack of fluid?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123814-a-lsd/#findComment-2286171
Share on other sites

Some Gtst's came with the vspec diff you are very lucky as they are a rare option.

The A-LSD light in the tacho it only comes on if there is a problem. The ECU for the ALSD is in the boot. Does it stay on always or just come on now and then?

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123814-a-lsd/#findComment-2286173
Share on other sites

Nah, Actually, this site is pretty gay regarding a-lsd. I keep asking about certain things about a-lsd.

No one knows what fluid it uses. no one knows how to bleed the system.

No one actually knows how it performs relative to the normal gtr 2way diff.

Searching will get you info about fully sik people talking about fully sik stuff. but nothing actually useful about the a-lsd.

Like there's info about how people have installed fully sik power fcs into their fully sik skylines to make them fully sik and go quicker.

does someone actually know anything useful about the a-lsd? if so, please post.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123814-a-lsd/#findComment-2286188
Share on other sites

Check fluid in a space in the boot on the right hand side, you'll see a little canister behind a little clipped on segment.

The fluid it takes is power steering fluid.

As for the microtech, this might be causing the problem, from memory the A-Lsd computer requires a signal from the ECU that aftermarket computers generally don't give and have to be modified to suit.

Here I've run the search for you, check this link out:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=107656

Now I realise that you don't have a power Fc, but the premise behind the solution should be the same for the microtech.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123814-a-lsd/#findComment-2297867
Share on other sites

Yes skylines can have an A-lsd light.

It means you have an active spec LSD version of the skyline.

Run some searches there's a shipload of info on this site about the A-Lsd.

As for it intermitently turning on. Do you have a power-fc? If you do I strongly suggest you look at the signature of a guy on here called PaulR33 as this is a fault that happens with the A-lsd failing and power fc's, but he's got the cure (read: DIY) to fix the problem.

If you don't have an Power FC.

Perhaps a fault with your abs sensors or the computer itself, or the hydralics, or a lack of fluid?

hmmmm. i love it when people get credit for my work :

putting it simply.. while driving the light will come on when the wheels slip. (lets you know its working)

if not. you need to aply the tps signal to the a-lsd ecu. just check "moonie" 's topic on a-lsd. i fixed it for her at wsid :dry: with a multimetre and some eletrical tape :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123814-a-lsd/#findComment-2300251
Share on other sites

hmmmm. i love it when people get credit for my work :

putting it simply.. while driving the light will come on when the wheels slip. (lets you know its working)

if not. you need to aply the tps signal to the a-lsd ecu. just check "moonie" 's topic on a-lsd. i fixed it for her at wsid :) with a multimetre and some eletrical tape :whistling:

Hey man, apologies, credit where credit's due.

I just remembered following the post about the fault with the A-Lsd (As I have one in my car, but my ecu is still standard), and remember Paul copying it to his link on FAQ on A-Lsd's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123814-a-lsd/#findComment-2300910
Share on other sites

how about if someone actually says how to blled the syhstem and what fluid it uses?

There is a bleeder nipple on the right hand side under the car runs along the right hand chassis and is roughly above the diff cradle. Make sure the car is running and bleed out the air from there.

It is difinitley power steer fluid. It will also read low when the car is off! So don't over fill it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123814-a-lsd/#findComment-2301216
Share on other sites

cheers for all the info guys i mite attempt to bleed it on the week end there is red oil ontop of another coloured oil like some one said on a previous post in my canister so i mite replace it can anyone tell me a specific type of oil to use and a rough price

cheers guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123814-a-lsd/#findComment-2308992
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...