Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well guys,

Yesterday i installed my new turbo, (had hi mount set up before), but my cooler piping was set up crap, went behind the cooler etc etc. so i decided to redo all my cooler piping with my new turbo, now here is some shots, its only been tack welded atm getting migged this week and sprayed in 2pac silver, black or red (my mates a spray painter). just for those that wanna do it on the cheap and need ideas....

the other thing is my carbon canister is down my the in the drivers guard, as put there for compliance, now what we did is made the pipe run a bit furthur out and repositioned the carbon canister under the guard and it fits fine.

i will take more pics this weekend when its all complete

post-28791-1151311644.jpg

post-28791-1151311817.jpg

post-28791-1151311903.jpg

post-28791-1151312123.jpg

post-28791-1151312161.jpg

post-28791-1151312238.jpg

post-28791-1151312272.jpg

post-28791-1151312399.jpg

post-28791-1151312663.jpg

Edited by sinistagtst
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123827-piping-install/
Share on other sites

doesn't really have any room for engine movement in it by the looks of things.

i would have put more silicon joiners in the system to allow for the strain it will be under when the engine torques.,

other than that, looks the goods..

oh and maybe putting a joiner before that pipe that goes over the oil filler cap, so you can fill it up easy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123827-piping-install/#findComment-2286966
Share on other sites

nice piping install. mine should look rather similar as im using a similar size turbo and the q45 also. the piping over the rocker cover looks to be a great idea

how hard was it to find the reducers for the afm going onto the 4inch pipe? did you have an idling/stalling problems with that side of things (afm)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123827-piping-install/#findComment-2287828
Share on other sites

well....

sir racer...i the reducer from the turbo to the afm is actually one for a 4inch pipe to the standard afm, i already had it, so i just streched it on the new afm. i havent actually started the car yet, waiting for my cooler pipes to be properly welded (had the car off the rd for a while and bought a few goodies i blew my cheap t70 up lol).

munna1 thanks... its a gt3040, just had it polished.

morlock, yeh it will be a bitch but its trial and error if its to much of a pain i will just put a join in there somewhere...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123827-piping-install/#findComment-2289333
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...