Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Lads

As stated my RB20DET Onevia isnt in the best of health at the moment. For some reason the car will not rev above about 3000rpm or so (well when it starts to build up some boost)... Car was running fine for about 200km's after I took delivery of it. But all of a sudden it just lost all power and feeling through the pedal and sounded like it was hitting the rev limiter (although only at 3000rpm)

So I have had all pipes checked and some replaced, I had the intercooler replaced, the fuel pump is fine, the injectors and gaps are fine. So the only thing I have been suggested to check is coil packs. Possibility?

Cheers

Chris

Advanced Motorsports

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123976-rb20det-onevia-its-sick/
Share on other sites

sounds like its in 'limp home mode' happened to my car a while back

the ecu isn't receiving a signal from a sensor so it doesn't allow the engine to rev past 3000 to protect it

on my car it was a faulty afm, check all our sensors (o2, afm, aav, etc) an ecu diagnostic will tell you exactly.

My 2 cents

Cheers Mate. AFM was replaced about 2 months ago...

Thing is it will rev past 3000rpm... but only if your not booting it. 3000rpm is all it will go up to with the foot flat, because it wont let it rev once it starts to make boost. If that makes sense?

Cheers Mate. AFM was replaced about 2 months ago...

Thing is it will rev past 3000rpm... but only if your not booting it. 3000rpm is all it will go up to with the foot flat, because it wont let it rev once it starts to make boost. If that makes sense?

sounds like afm? was it replaced with a new item, or 2nd hand one?

better try a nissan consult I reckon.......

sounds like afm? was it replaced with a new item, or 2nd hand one?

better try a nissan consult I reckon.......

Ahh so u do step out of the Stagea section hey? :)

Well the standard one died and was re-built.

It hasnt been re-calibrated yet though. So you think it may be that then?

Ahh so u do step out of the Stagea section hey? :)

Well the standard one died and was re-built.

It hasnt been re-calibrated yet though. So you think it may be that then?

yeah, I do actually.... mind you Im pretty clueless tho.

Id suggest that the afm isnt able to read the large volumes of air being sucked in by that dinkydi Onevia of yours. hence rich and retard.

How is the fuel economy? ratshit?

Nup economy isnt that bad at all... Which is the strange thing. I think its too quick for rich & retard. Although wouldnt it be spilling black smoke out the rear from excess richness if that were the case?

well it could possibly be coil packs. Would make for an easy solution. Pedal looses all feeling at around the 3000rpm mark when the foot is to the floor... So I'm not too sure. Will talk to you about it more on msn

Mate I know everyone else has suggested AFM but I had the exact same problem in my R32 with RB20DET it would cough and splutter at about 3k RPM and putting the foot flat to the floor would do nothing then all of a sudden it would surge back to life it turned out to be my AFM so yeah it seems likely this could be your problem too.

I'm thinking AFM too... This is a re-built one as the old one failed for some unknown reason. Hasnt been re-calibrated yet. Car is at a mechanics today getting a blue slip done. I'll get them to check the AFM for me

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
×
×
  • Create New...