Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

John Hill of JHH Engineering

Another one for JHH.

Just you need to listen to what he says. Dont go in half cocked that you want this and this. Say what you want to get out of the car, answer his questions, and you should have a VERY nice engine.

  • 2 years later...

thought id bring up an old topic. can someone suggest a engine builder/balancer that will do exactly what u ask. unlike the moron i used that did half the job his way and then refused to finish it (and charged double the verbal quote).

the same 2 recommendations as were previously on here

Chilton Engineering or JHH if your after engineering (boring/honing/balancing).

If you need a builder/mechanical god, check out Dan @ Elite Racing Developments (http://www.erd.com.au)

there is one that has been recommended that i would not use, will not mention but has been lissted a few times.

i had my machining done there, and i had to get another shop to do a quick job on my crank and they found the crank had 8thou

run out, the crank was full of metal and had not been cleaned, my block had marks in the bores from the hone being dragged out

and 2 welsh plugs missing from the oil gallerys. the big ends on my rods were not true. all up i had to sepnd another $1200 to fix everything

I do highly recommend John Wilson Engineering at southport. hell my rb20 revs to 9k and makes just over 400rwhp. cant complain

$4K for pull down, machining, full head service including guides, blueprinting and assembly. Any cheaper and id be questioning the quality.

is this for a standard rebuild, or using stronger internals?

i realise "how much for a rebuild" is like asking how long is a piece of string, but just curious roughly what parts are used

is this for a standard rebuild, or using stronger internals?

i realise "how much for a rebuild" is like asking how long is a piece of string, but just curious roughly what parts are used

no parts...parts are extra on top of this

the above price includes the assembly to be fully balanced.

Edited by DiRTgarage
Another one for JHH.

Just you need to listen to what he says. Dont go in half cocked that you want this and this. Say what you want to get out of the car, answer his questions, and you should have a VERY nice engine.

ANOTHER ONE FOR JOHN HILL AT JHH. He built my 25/30 and did all the headwork on my 26/30.

Now if only I could find the number lol.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I couldn't agree more. As an owner of a built high HP skyline, I'd be a hypocrite to not buy a Hummer for the reasons you listed though haha. 
    • Hahaha oh shit! Again!
    • Is this the one? https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php?id_product=2192&rewrite=nissan-stagea-c34-rear-boot-actuator-assembly-90550-0v000 Might be worth having a look at yahoo japan as well. Though it seems a bit odd. If the motor works itself, other than being noisy, then wouldn't it be more likely that it's an electrical issue somewhere else? And it being noisy does not seem as surprising if it has been chugging away for months  
    • I know this thread is quite old, but I found it, it helped me, but I also wanted to add my experience and troubleshooting finds to the chat for others. I have not been able to open the rear hatch of my 97 Stagea for several months. Figured it had just really sealed itself up over the winter and I would just get to it eventually. Well that day was yesterday. Some time ago, I noticed my battery was going flat all the time. It was frustrating. Then one quiet night in the garage, I could hear and ever so slight humming / grinding noise coming from the back of the car. It was like a really quiet popping sound or something like sand in a very low speed blender. I took off the panels in the back and noticed the noise coming from the auto close motor, so I unplugged it and the noise stopped. And the auto close was disabled. Well, fast forward to yesterday, I tried all the tricks with power and fuse and lock and unlock and I still could open the damn hatch. So I took off the panels from the inside and found the auto lock had engaged and was stuck in close position. When plugging and unplugging the fuse, I could hear the relay clicking. So I plugged the autoclose motor back in, and the damn thing let go. And immediately started making that grinding sound again. This time, instead of just unplugging the motor, I pulled the fuse, thus depowering the relay entirely. I don't have the autoclose feature now, but at least I can open the boot and not have my battery being sucked dead all the time. Not sure what caused the motor to latch when it was unplugged from the system, but I am pretty sure it won't cause any more problems now.  If anyone has a lead on a new motor, please let me know. It's a cool feature that I would like to get back.  Hope this helps.
    • Lolololol maybe, man I hate this car. Lapsed judgement a respray and a new motor, when I should have just scrapped the lot when I had the chance. Farken.
×
×
  • Create New...