Jump to content
SAU Community

Going From An Atmo Bov To Plumback

Freddy Kruger
 Share

Recommended Posts

Freddy Kruger Mentor

Freddy Kruger

Posted
Posted

ok, my r33 has an atmo bov on it and ive noticed that it sometimes idle kinda wierd and other symtoms of a non plumback bov. well looking at getting a plum back bov when i get my tax back and i kinda go nfi how to go about the plum back part...

like what size hose etc and where it reconnects before the afm.

ive attached a pic (i work better with pics...) and yes the airfilter is due for a clean i think...

any help will be appreciated :P i think the afm is the thing after the pod right? (my last car was a commodore and less technical :) )

post-23268-1151471645.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124114-going-from-an-atmo-bov-to-plumback/
Share on other sites
SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted

4thenoob.jpg

its all there ready to be clamped on. there should be something blocking off the hose so take it off and attach it to your new bov.

if you've got idling issues i think you should do a search on "AAC Valve" that'll get you started.

002doc Enthusiast

002doc

Posted
Posted

If you can mate I recomend going back to the stock BOV, can handle plenty of boost and give you no dramas like the Atmo. It looks like your intake pipe isnt standard though, so u might have some dramas, have you got a photo of where your BOV is mounted?

Cheers

R33S2 Grand Master

R33S2

Posted
Posted

Take a pic of the crossover pipe so I can see if the factory Bov is still on there, mine had a thin plate between the crossover pipe and the Factory BOV that blocked it off and all I had to do was remove that plate and block the atmo hole off .

post-17300-1151486920.jpg

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted

in that case its just a matter of swapping them over. it consists of 2x12mm bolts holding the BOV in, a vacuum hose and a hose with 2 clamps to fit onto the stocky.

i'll take a pic of it close up for you tomorrow.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

yeah the thing with the grey cap. if you open it the little dipstick (about an inch long) will have a line on each side. one has hot, the other cold. this is due to the fact that the fluid expands when hot (or is it cold.... i can't remember). but anyway check it according to whether it is hot or cold on the corresponding marks.

RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted

With K&N filters they rely on some dirt to help aid filtering, but without effecting flow levels.

So making it really clean again will mean more particles going into the engine.

I don't know how dirty it is, from those pics, just be-aware that some dirt is required to get them to filter well. (Its all stated on the back of the boxes)

I hate when people do a filter test for filtration levels and they use a brand new filter and and say K&N doesn't filter as well as other filters.

Yet they don't realise or state K&N specify some dirt helps it filter properly, hence not needing to be cleaned for up to 100k km in some cases.

Freddy Kruger Mentor

Freddy Kruger

Posted
  • Author
Posted

oh, never read that... then again ive never bought a k&n filter... it is pretty dirty tho. im tossing up buying the cleaning kit thingy or even an apexi pod... ill prob go the cheaper option...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...