Jump to content
SAU Community

How the hell do you mod a car and dodge the Filth and/or the EPA


Recommended Posts

There has to be plenty of ppl in the same boat as me, aftermarket air pod, BOV, boost controller or a front mount intercooler. According to Protech Developments Pty. Ltd. ALL these mods are illegal no matter what you do. Is this true and if so how the hell do pll get away with it? If it's not true where or who do i see to get it passed?

Engineers only works for non-emission affecting mods like:

brakes/suspension/gearbox/diff etc. etc. mods.

You can get and engineers when you upgrade Turbo/ECU/BOV,

But you also have to get the EPA to test it also... i heard EPA test's were about $1,000 and if you fail there is no re-test so you have to pay again and again till it passes.

But if you do get and Engineers, get them to write down all the mods.

If they don't and just give you a certificate.... the cop's will just say that the piece of paper means nothing if the mod's aren't listed.

They say that you could've changed parts... etc. etc.

And then give you a canary... and if they can't do that.

So if you wanna be 100% safe... you gotta do the EPA test thing and also get THEM to write down what mod's you have too.

Hope that helps.... i could be wrong with some stuff but it's open to debate

Another option is to avoid places that attracts idiots, which then attracts the cops' attention. Places such as Chapel Str., Elwood, illegal drags, etc., etc..

Sometimes you can be unlucky and just get done by a playa hater!

it's all good... but when ya have a nice car you wanna drive it (not that i'd go anywhere near chapel) but you know what i mean ?

Like a nice drivce down beach Rd on a Sat night cause it's HOT as... and all you do is get hassled

I agree with that.

All i'm sayin is that you know certain areas like; chappel, illegal drags (even if only spectating), Bell Str. Macca's, etc. will be swarmming will cops. So why risk it?, then cry on the forrum about cruising down chaps., and driving out with a big yellow sticker because of your BOV.

Guest INASNT

Y worry about the cops and the epa. Its your car do what u like with it.

I just got a canary and epa test done coz the pig that canaryed me reported me to the epa 2. U r allowed 1 intake mod, which mine was intercooler, i took off/hid the other mods and then after passing the test i put them all back on.

Its a game of cat and mouse, dont act like a tool on the road and u wont attract the wrong attention to your car.

And as for emission test costing $2500, the epa did mine for free. Its just a gas analysising machine and they stick a probe in the exhaust and rev it a bit. Takes about 5-10 and they print out the results. $2500?? i dont thin so.

Originally posted by INASNT

Y worry about the cops and the epa. Its your car do what u like with it.

I just got a canary and epa test done coz the pig that canaryed me reported me to the epa 2. U r allowed 1 intake mod, which mine was intercooler, i took off/hid the other mods and then after passing the test i put them all back on.

And as for emission test costing $2500, the epa did mine for free. Its just a gas analysising machine and they stick a probe in the exhaust and rev it a bit. Takes about 5-10 and they print out the results. $2500?? i dont thin so.

Inasnt.... in relation to a few bits...

It's your car and you can do what you want. As long as it's classed as 'legal'

Your mods might make it safer and better... but is it 'legal'

if you get EPA'd i think more than 3 times for the same offences the EPA can de-register your car/dish out a phat fine (or the cops can) i might not be 100% right there but it's something along those lines.

Also... An emission test being $2,500... yeah it's around that. That to get your car approved with ALL mods to your car on there. Rather than just the one intake mod rule.

Cause for others with different plenum's... cooler piping/extra injectors/bigger injectors/bigger turbo's and all that sort of crap. It's a great hassle taking it back to stock everytime ya get pulled over... so if you pass the test you never have to worry about it if the give you an EPA

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by R31Nismoid

Inasnt.... in relation to a few bits...

It's your car and you can do what you want. As long as it's classed as 'legal'

Your mods might make it safer and better... but is it 'legal'

if you get EPA'd i think more than 3 times for the same offences the EPA can de-register your car/dish out a phat fine (or the cops can) i might not be 100% right there but it's something along those lines.

Also... An emission test being $2,500... yeah it's around that. That to get your car approved with ALL mods to your car on there. Rather than just the one intake mod rule.

Cause for others with different plenum's... cooler piping/extra injectors/bigger injectors/bigger turbo's and all that sort of crap. It's a great hassle taking it back to stock everytime ya get pulled over... so if you pass the test you never have to worry about it if the give you an EPA

thats y with my turbo upgrade i am going for lowmount setup, then they wouldnt know the difference. As for bigger injectors epa wouldnt have a clue (they didnt know what my afm did when i went for the test)

When i passed my test the epa guy told me he would need photo evidence from the cops if i was reported again or else he would just ignore it!

The epa dont realise that alot of the mods make the car run better with less emissions.

put bigger injectors they'll notice.

Trust me.

if you get a guy that actually knows what he is on about (and some of them do) then i think you'll find you'll be in for a surprise.

They have a rough idea of what model cars should be running and if it's largely different, then you might find yourself in a spot oif bother... as would i and lots of others.

And he doesn't ned photo evidence. If he states you have a different mods or whatever you can still get reported i think

I'd like to know how epa testing, (and that's the term you're using) costs 2500 dollars??? What an absolute steaming helping!

That is as much as it costs to comply a whole car at a RETAIL LEVEL!! Jeez.

Guest INASNT
And he doesn't ned photo evidence. If he states you have a different mods or whatever you can still get reported i think

The chief epa inspector told me the cops need photo evidence cause i said what if i get reported again for nuttin. Remember i changed my exhaust and alot of stuff before the test and my car only read 83db.

A cop can see u drive by and report u, so how does he know what mods u got?

Originally posted by 2rismo

I'd like to know how epa testing, (and that's the term you're using) costs 2500 dollars???  What an absolute steaming helping!

That is as much as it costs to comply a whole car at a RETAIL LEVEL!!  Jeez.

I'll rephrase,

EPA Compliance then.....

And yeah that's what it cost a Retail Level... cause if you change the way your car came out from the factory (save for the 1 intake mod and those sort of things they let by) then it's no longer the same as what it was orginainally tested as.

And that's what requires that level of testing.

I know this as i know someone with a Supra with a non-standard engine and is going through this in detail with the EPA and stuff.

As a matter of fact $2500 is correct. This is an emissions test provided by the EPA on a dyno. It is a simulation of real road conditions and this IS required to LEGALLY drive a car with these types of intake modifications. As for the 1 intake mod rule, as soon as you modify any component of a car that may effect the emissions of the car it is no longer covered under the EPA’s initial report as it does not comply with is original specs.

Guest INASNT

y worry about the epa with your car.

there r plenty of other shit buckets out on the road blowing slow and crap out their exhausts.

In a few months the cops wont be picking on us imports that much once the new import laws come in

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...