Jump to content
SAU Community

Drift Spec 180sx Rb25det Or Sr20det?

Bo05t3d
 Share

Recommended Posts

Bo05t3d Enthusiast

Bo05t3d

Posted
Posted (edited)

hey guys was just wondering what engine you think would be more suitable for drifting a 180sx a RB25DET or the SR20DET need help as mate thinks sr20 would drift better where i think rb25...lol

cheers adam...

Edited by Bo05t3d
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124569-drift-spec-180sx-rb25det-or-sr20det/
Share on other sites
Big Rizza Mentor

Big Rizza

Posted
Posted (edited)

Go an Ecotec.

But seriously, for most people the SR20DET gives enough power and response to get drifting. It's cheaper and gives better weight distrobution than the RB. Only in really extreme drift would the extra power, torque and response of the RB be worthwhile.

Just my 2c

Edited by Big Rizza
Big Rizza Mentor

Big Rizza

Posted
Posted
Your mate and the Big R is right.. Not only is the RB25 heavier but it locates the weight further forward of the crossmember.

A VQ30 on the other hand :whistling:

That thing barely fits into a 300ZX. How the hell do you squeeze it into an S13? Very wide engine for such a small vehicle...

D-limo Veteran

D-limo

Posted
Posted

Your're getting the VG and the VQ series(alloy block) mixed up.. And I have seen a VG30 in a 180. Also my mate had a VQ30 in a Laurel. Was a nice fit. Banzai motorsports recently bought it as a project car. I've heard rumors of that VQ30's are lighter than RB25's. Also the single stock turbo of the VQ being of steel wheel config gives the possibility of 220rwkw :whistling:

But yeah any V layout engine in an S13 will probably create under bonnet temp issues.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

i'd probably say rb20. slightly more torque than a sr20, so if you were to go into a corner, or come out of a corner, lower in the rev range the more torque would still be able to keep the wheels spinning. but it really comes down to what mods you are going to run on the engine. if it is going to be reasonably stock then the sr20 won't be as good as the rb20 because the sr takes a while to spool up due to the bush bearing turbo. however to use an rb motor you would need to change to a steel wheeled turbo, otherwise you will cook it.

Hawker180 Proficient

Hawker180

Posted
Posted
i'd probably say rb20. slightly more torque than a sr20, so if you were to go into a corner, or come out of a corner, lower in the rev range the more torque would still be able to keep the wheels spinning. but it really comes down to what mods you are going to run on the engine. if it is going to be reasonably stock then the sr20 won't be as good as the rb20 because the sr takes a while to spool up due to the bush bearing turbo. however to use an rb motor you would need to change to a steel wheeled turbo, otherwise you will cook it.

Thats just plain, WRONG...the RB20DET has no torque compaired to the SR20DET...i should know, ive owned both!

The SR has heaps more low down compaired to the RB20...expecially when going for a larger turbo

SR is the pick of the bunch for an S13...but sounds like a tractor....RB note is insane!

scathing Grand Master

scathing

Posted
Posted

An RB25 will have more torque though (which was the original question, and I think / hope mad082 just typo'ed).

That said, you want a well balanced car and an RB powered Silvia won't be as well balanced as an SR powered one.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted (edited)
the RB20DET has no torque compaired to the SR20DET...i should know, ive owned both!

were they in the same car? the r32 is a heavier car than a silvia or 180. i have driven a silvia with an rb20 motor in it, and i used to own a 180sx with an sr20. the rb20 had more low down power then the sr20. out of a slow corner the rb would pull a lot earlier in the revs. but out of a slow corner the missus' natro sr20 pulsar would beat both of them until they got up in the revs.

and i'm talking about stock motors with stock turbos, just front mounts and exhausts.

Edited by mad082
Mr. Oizo Grand Master

Mr. Oizo

Posted
Posted
i'd probably say rb20. slightly more torque than a sr20, so if you were to go into a corner, or come out of a corner, lower in the rev range the more torque would still be able to keep the wheels spinning. but it really comes down to what mods you are going to run on the engine. if it is going to be reasonably stock then the sr20 won't be as good as the rb20 because the sr takes a while to spool up due to the bush bearing turbo. however to use an rb motor you would need to change to a steel wheeled turbo, otherwise you will cook it.

LOL!

The RB20 has no torque.

It's a 6, where the SR20 is a 4 cyl.

MANWHOR3 Proficient

MANWHOR3

Posted
Posted (edited)
on the topic, whats the weight difference between an rb20 and rb25?

Would having one in a 32 make a huge difference to the weight distribution of the car?

You'll actually be suprised, but a significant portion of the difference in weight between an r32 and r33 is actually the motor and gearbox.

This goes to all of those homos calling r33s boats. I'm not just making this up off the top of my head. I did an rb25 into r ugly poo (32). After helpinng a friend out with an rb25 swap into his r ugly poo, it weighed almost as much as an r33 gtst.

So basically, to all you r32 lovers, the reason why your car is lighter is mainly because of the crap motor and crap gearbox.

Edited by MANWHOR3
Yo-Yo Grand Master

Yo-Yo

Posted
Posted
You'll actually be suprised, but a significant portion of the difference in weight between an r32 and r33 is actually the motor and gearbox.

This goes to all of those homos calling r33s boats. I'm not just making this up off the top of my head. I did an rb25 into r ugly poo (32). After helpinng a friend out with an rb25 swap into his r ugly poo, it weighed almost as much as an r33 gtst.

So basically, to all you r32 lovers, the reason why your car is lighter is mainly because of the crap motor and crap gearbox.

Lol so much hostility dude,

They also bag our cars on the looks & how it's all bulgy, I love 33's In fact all of the skylines.

What's with all this competitiveness between r32/r33 owners? Aren't we all supposed to be united against power tripping cops & v8 bogans? :)

MANWHOR3 Proficient

MANWHOR3

Posted
Posted
Why not hate on the R34 owners for owning better looking and faster cars than you? :)

[Flamesuit: ON]

There is no hostility or hatred going on here, just merely pointing out that most of the weight comes from superior parts, such as motor (and ancilliaries e.g. bigger fuel pump, bigger injectors, etc, every small thing adds weight) and much bigger box.

I was also merely pointing out that r ugly poo owners call r33s whales for being heavy when once these upgrades are installed into an r32, the weight is not that different, but at the end of the day, the interior still looks like a vn commo and the exterior is not far off a vl.

But in reply to the thread, sr20 since the car is designed for an sr. Much better/easier fit (an rb20/25 is really tight. try and find a pic of one). much better weight balance. plenty of power for the lighter car.

ToF Experienced

ToF

Posted
Posted
i'd probably say rb20. slightly more torque than a sr20, so if you were to go into a corner, or come out of a corner, lower in the rev range the more torque would still be able to keep the wheels spinning. but it really comes down to what mods you are going to run on the engine. if it is going to be reasonably stock then the sr20 won't be as good as the rb20 because the sr takes a while to spool up due to the bush bearing turbo. however to use an rb motor you would need to change to a steel wheeled turbo, otherwise you will cook it.

LOL is all I can do at that.

I drift my RB20 and no, it sucks, even my old CA18 Silvia had more torque down-low to mid which is where you most need it for drifting IMO. Apart from being annoying on the track, it's also annoying on the street as well, have to redline it just to take off from the lights at a reasonable rate. :P

I was also merely pointing out that r ugly poo owners call r33s whales for being heavy when once these upgrades are installed into an r32, the weight is not that different, but at the end of the day, the interior still looks like a vn commo and the exterior is not far off a vl.

I don't think anyone started bagging R33s in this thread but you straight out started to bag R32s just cause you felt like it in an unrelated topic. So because you've let your thoughts free, so will I even though they will be offensive.

Sorry but my interpretation is that whale is in reference to the whale-like appearance (small factor being weight). I knew the whales were much better value than the 32s when I bought my "ugly poo", but I wouldn't be able to live with the fact that when I stare at my car I see a whale on wheels. Ugly FAT things they are. But hey this is just my opinion and it shouldn't matter to you.

You know that is always in my mind when I think of R33s but you don't see me boasting around and bagging other models in any old unrelated topic with no mention of of it.

We all love Skylines, we should learn to be more opened minded and tolerant of other people's opinions/tastes, control yourselves guys. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      Apologies for the long read My R34 GTT was up for sale at the beginning of spring due to a few repairs creeping up. The strut tops needed replacing, roof and bonnet (hood) painting (yay for 3 stage pearl) and the underside stripped and treated. I sold the car which allowed me to be in a much better place financially. Leading up to the sale I was already thinking about the replacement. In an ideal world it needed to be a good all-rounder. Something I can mess around with, modify, do track days, do the school run, go on long drives etc.  Options included but not limited to... Laurel C35, Evo 8/9, Civic FD2, Impreza Hawkeye, Aristo and even an Audi S4 Avant (I've already got the Mazda 6 wagon). But there was always one car at the top of the list The Toyota Mark ii JZX110 I found an advert on a Facebook group for an example in Japan, from a seller called Jon at Rising Sun Exports. A few messages back and forth and Jon calls me from Yokohama one morning (or afternoon in his case). He briefly explained the import process, the costs involved and a repeat of the advert. After much deliberation, the price was agreed and the sale was locked in. I've never imported a vehicle so I jumped into the unknown head first. The money transfer was completed through wise.com (fees apply), very easy to use and the money was with him within a day or two.  The car suspension was raised for the vessel and the car dropped off at the port. It was 7 weeks later when the bill of lading was received and the freight invoice sent to me, followed by the export certificate a couple of days after (both digital copies) In the mean time the port had been in contact. I needed an agent to deal with the NOVA (notification of vehicle arrival) along with the tax/duty invoice, this was £75.00. The port also had a fee of £100, I'm guessing to cover the cost of the 10 day 'free storage' and for moving the car off the boat etc. They need a copy of the vehicle invoice, freight invoice and export certificate to allow the vehicle to pass through customs. The vessel arrived on Tuesday 5th August, the tax/duty invoice was generated and sent over. This is generally tax 20% and duty 10% of the vehicle value. Although the invoice came in at a higher amount than I had calculated. Once HMRC had received the payment the vehicle could be released from customs. I thought once the tax/duty was paid you could collect at any point, that's not the case. Your agent will need to book a collection slot, I requested Thursday 7th which was accepted, with a 9:00am slot allocated. It was a 5:00am start from Norfolk heading to Southampton. We eventually found the compound, upon presenting the bill of lading and some ID they released the car (they drove it out of the compound to the front ready for us to load up). The email from the port stated each slot had a 10 minute window, which seemed abit farfetched but the staff said it's not a strict rule. We were there for approx. 30-40 mins in total. A week prior to collecting I contacted my garage and explained the situation, I was able to get an inspection slot that afternoon. For the registration, DVLA require the car to be insured, for this I used a company called Adrian Flux who can insure the vehicle using the VIN number. 
    • nxh
      R34 4 door side skirt identification

      By nxh · Posted

      Hey guys, looking for these side skirts if anyone can help me out. 
    • TurboTapin
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Wife and I are still looking for a new home. One condition was a large enough garage for a full-size lift in one bay. Now if only we could find something... We've been looking for almost a year now.
    • TurboTapin
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Thanks everyone for the ideas! Sadly, ramps are a no go for me. With young kids at home, I do most of my work late at night while they're sleeping. Starting the car multiple times wouldn't be a great idea.  I'll go see one of those new long reach low profile jacks and take a couple measurements to see if they will fit.   
×
×
  • Create New...