Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey fellas, i thought maybe some of u might be able to help me out here...

u can modify a car as much as you want but in all honesty, its your ability to drive that counts more than anything

my problem is that i cant seem to perfect my launch..so i was wodnering if anyone could give me some tips...usually i sit at about 2500 to 3000 and jus ease through the clutch, but i still get taken off the mark...eventually through 3-4 i can them most of the time but if i could jus master the start....

any advice?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124595-the-perfect-launch/
Share on other sites

i actually like a nice salad mayo sandwich, usually goes down and hits the spot nicely :whistling:

oh hang on, launch, hmmmm

anton sounds like you have the idea ... i would be more insisting on 2000 - 2500 rpm easing clutch out and gaining throttle as its coming out

a little wheel spin, or chirping of the tyres is fine ... just no major wheelspin.

its not as easy to launch as everyone thinks

unless u got an auto ... meh

Your avatar shows a R33, your sig shows "RB20DET" - so this might be of no use but...

My R33 (pretty much stock) launches best at about 4200rpms. Any lower, it bogs. Any higher, wheelspin to hell. But 4200 - I go off like a gunshot. It's very tricky (especially with a turbo), but once you find the sweet spot you're laughing!

Much easier if you get an aftermarket computer with launch control - you can preset the revs your engine holds at whilst you hold the throttle flat down, as soon as it detects any speed (cos you took your foot off the clutch) it goes bach to full...

I Have an R32GTSt. Mods are FMIC 3 inch turbo back eghaust, 12PSI Boost. I also have a semi button ceramic clutch. Launching was a hard task to perfect. Usually 3500 - 4000rpm for a "moderate" launch or a redline launch if out at the track and just ride it out.

For average day to day driving i usually take off at 1500rpm.

Hope this helps!

a little bit of wheelspin is better than bogging it down. i have a heavy single plate clutch and only have stock tyres (205's...i know they are crap, but my old ones weren't legal and i only paid $200 for 4 new tyres on stock r33 rims). putting 270 odd hp to the ground through them is rather tricky. i rev it up to about 3000-3500, load it up on the handbrake. then when you want to go you drop the handbrake, gas it as you let the cluth up quickly. use the accelerator to determine how much wheelspin you get.

Is the car in your avatar a GTR - or has it just been badged a GTR like some (i won't call anyone names) people do?

If so, up the anti and drop it from 3500 - 5500, that's the beauty about GTR's they stick, if not, 3000 - 4000 works for me.

Hmm Wheelspin... What if ur car is running on High Boost all the time??

how do u lessen as much wheelspin as possible

Sometimes i can smell clutch n it's burning or whatever

I rev it to about 1K or just a bit over.. Then Bang drop on the Gas

Still spins. Got 245'z Tyres, FMIC, 3 Inch Cat Back, Hks Filter n 9-10Psi of Boost. It doesn't get going till after 2nd... then goes all out once i reached 3rd..

It's a bit of a Problem when draggin other Fast Non-Turbo Cars.. aka V8's, SS, XR8 etc...

Edited by Black_CSR
  • 3 months later...

I rev till about 3000. Lift the bandbrake, let clutch out till the friction point and then release then hanbrake. I may not come onto boost as quick as the guys who drop and feather the clutch at 4000 but it's consistent.

Tyres and suspension play a monumental part aswell

Jeezus, this thread is filled with so much uncertainty that it's just not funny.

Few points for you to consider (for the drag strip of course):

A little wheel spin is better than bogging down.

Generally, this requires a little more revs, and easing the clutch out.

It is car dependant - therefore, you'll have to practice.

What I did before, was I would start at 3k rpm. I tried to pop it, it boged.

Popping it at 4 did a mini burnout, then bogged.

Therefore, for general semi quick launches, without absolutely killing the clutch, I just ease it out at about 4-4.5.

But hey, that's just how my car goes with my tyre, suspension, clutch, power delivery etc. Therefore, practice on your own car.

But the general principle is avoid bog, avoid burnout, a bit of wheels spin is ok e.g. 10% wheelspin.

hmm, when i had the stock 32 turbo, dropping it from about 2500 was the perfect launch. Now with the r34 turbo its impossible to take off. Wouldnt bother taking it to a strip, too hard to launch, id be looking at 15's.

I've tried riding it down from 4k, too much clutch burn, 3k, it bogs even if i let it slow or it wheel spins to the top and dropping it from everywhere means either bog or burn. I was driving my mates civic (91, twin carb, 1.6L), he was in my skyline, i was in front of him on take off for at least 50 meters, till spoolage and traction and lag fixed itself and the line overtook

gey assd rb20

Ok ill post a proper response about my experiences. In my old R33, it had turbo back exhaust, 10psi, Power FC, FMIC (191rwkw), rock hard tein susp, 5 puck brass button clutch, 255 wide K104 tyres, revs at 4200, drop clutch (foot flat all the way) & wheel spin half way through 1st, ran 13.5 @ 106 with 1.8 60’ (with granny shifted 3rd)

As adrian said, it's car dependant, so practice makes perfect.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...