Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www.pbase.com/crimmo/skyline r30 in its japness... car was completely stock grandma spec when he first got it

its hot!

i dont like 31s but ill say ti again... yours that low... looks hot!

id bring it back down again... my cef is that low - ive only raised it 10mm as my gf complains as shes using it as her daily atm

  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

http://www.pbase.com/crimmo/skyline r30 in its japness... car was completely stock grandma spec when he first got it

its hot!

i dont like 31s but ill say ti again... yours that low... looks hot!

id bring it back down again... my cef is that low - ive only raised it 10mm as my gf complains as shes using it as her daily atm

Cool 30. What front bar is that?

Hehe I couldn't get it up/down the driveway where I was working on it. I only raised it bout 30-40m. I think having 100mm from the ground on a street car is good for me. I don't want to get stuck on a speed hump :)

I'll post up a couple of pics and see how it goes.

you have to block them!

Hey just a quick clarification - someone in my other thread said they don't need to be plugged... possibly cos they go to the rear and so they aren't connected to the same 'circuit' as the PS pump.......... are you sure they need to be plugged? I don't have a welder that's all so if they don't then it makes my life easier.... where do they actually go?

Ok. Installed my r32 rack over the weekend - what a pain in the ass.

I also figured since I was playing with the rack I'd put in an alloy spacer (thanks NV). My old one was so sloppy I could move side to side when I grabbed the steering shaft by about 15mm O_o

Pictured is the whole r32 setup. I only used the r32 steering shaft from the spacer down to the rack (including the r32 uni joint).

I had a bag with the tie rod ends etc that were sold to me (thanks DIF) with the steering rack.. Of course I lost it so I started the job without them.

IMG_6560.jpg

Cut the power steering lines.

IMG_6561.jpg

Took the old rack out, which was easier than I thought but still pretty time consuming. It's a pain getting in to undo the driverside front bolt holding it in :|

Before I put the new one in I had to block it up… I don't have a TIG and the damn stuff is aluminium. The thought of threading it didn’t seem like a good idea at the time so I got some O-rings and made a plate up.

My plate.. Looks like a ghost face :happy:

IMG_6562.jpg

O-rings

IMG_6563.jpg

Fitted

IMG_6564_jpg.jpeg

And of course as you know it after spending 1.5hrs getting the plate right and a few hours later when it was all in, I start looking for the bag with the tie rod ends etc etc. Luckily my gf's brother finds it and not only is it a box (not a bag), but contains another uni, tie rod ends and…… the proper Nissan thingy that sits on the rack!... I didn't need the plate afterall.. :happy:

All done from underneath… there were 2 wires sticking out of the back of the thingy so I stripped them and added bullet connectors before it went on the rack to make it easier for myself incase I ever need to plug it up. Does anyone know what the hell the thingy is? I've read that it's measures angle of steering, if so why and what for? I know my cef had a plug that kept the engine revs stable while getting power assistance from the rack, the rb30 in the r31 doesn't seem to care though??

IMG_6567_jpg.jpeg

Banjos up close.

IMG_6568_jpg.jpeg

I'm not afraid to say it took another 2 goes before it was right, first time round it pissed out all the fluid because one of the o-rings had fallen out :( .. The second time it was because I hadn't tightened one of the banjos enough (damn curved copper washers) and one of the lines on the rack weren't done up tight… I should have checked but really I was happy to have it finished.

When I took it for a test drive the steering was really heavy and kind of unresponsive. I can accept the unresponsiveness because it needs a wheel alignment, fair enough (it even has more lock one way than the other.. Haha). … what I'm worried about though is why it's so heavy for steering?

- It's got fluid - at one point it overflowed a little from the reservoir when I tightened one of the banjos up.

- Could it have air in it?

- Could it be because my custom lines have too larger ID (hence losing pressure?)

- Would this happen if I had gotten the IN/OUT lines the wrong way round (I matched the large line with the larger banjo hole and so on)?

Any help appreciated :)

Well it's answered here.

http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?...06128#msg606128

and

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=160188

Looks like I should have continued to use the plate, I double owned myself O_o

I might go for an electric solution and use a variable resistor to see if I can regulate it. I'm just not sure it's a good idea....

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Halo.

Update is this week I haven't done shit because I've had to buy 2 new bolts to hold the tie rod ends in place and I couldn't be bothered fitting them. Still needs a wheel alignment and pink slip which I'll hopefully get done during the week...

  • 2 months later...

Anyway so I don't have a job or time for car related stuff at the moment so project is sloooooow. Should have been long finished by now but what can you do hah.

When I have time I will be installing things already purchased for the car. Tried to put in a (semi) proper racing seat today and found out that r32 rails don't fit r31. Some clown told me 3/4 bolts do.... Anyways then I started with the angle grinder.

hole_in_bonnet.jpg

Ended up with this (trial fitted)

vent_in_bonnet.jpg

When I get a chance I'll putty it up and spray the damn thing properly. Also reinforce the thing where the reo was taken out. ... Looks pretty ghetto but I'm hoping along with some fibreglass air deflectors under the hood from the rad it's the low cost cooling mod once I get to the track.

  • 2 weeks later...

Quick update, hectic busy... Muffler fell off a while ago, the pipe sounds nice. Will obviously go to 3" when it gets turboed but for now...

20062007244.jpg

20062007245.jpg

I can't take the credit I bought the stuffs and only did some of the welds but the skills lay with the man known as GI JAKE ;):)

20062007243.jpg

Not on the car yet, didn't have time to fit it on.... spacers and initial bodywork next I think IF I can get a place to work on it (nowhere at the moment :) ).

  • 2 months later...

Okay -update. I got defected a few months back.

My mechanic said it's a major so it'll have to get put back to stock but THEN it'll go through pits. It obviously can't pass pits with s13 suspension conversion or r32 steering rack, so even if I had the stock parts it's just not possible. I can't afford engineering.

So basically I have to give it up. Sad but true... all on a whim of a copper.

I'll be selling it as a package, since it's still drivable and perfectly okay to be re-registered if you have the connections or patience. It's a good body that was STOCK as and treated well when I got it.

- HSD coilovers 8/6k I think. (not more than 30k). (I bought from REPLICATE who I used to work with, I remember he bought them for his ceffy and I've driven less than 100km on them).

- r32 steering rack (great condition, checked it before putting it in)

- S13 coilover conversion (lower control arms, brakes, brake lines etc)

- custom lines for r32 rack (cost me just under $300!)

- hole in bonnet (comes with the kind of east bear-ish reverse scoop)

- Modena Japanese 3 piece rims in absolute mint condition (16x7 and 16x8 for that old school toughness, includes all pins/caps etc)

- Tyres that aren't shagged

- Short shift kit

- Stripped interior (rear seatbelts still in)

- Apex pod filter

- r32 FMIC kit (including FMIC which is already mounted)

- VLT stainless ebay exhaust manifold

- "glue on" flares (fatness)

- option of 40mm spacers (which were machined to fit the wheels and nissan hubs, will match these flares)

- import rear garnish (installed!)

- garden edge

- full sick drift styled mild steel tipped exhaust (needs a hanger welded on)

I know I'm going to lose money on it etc but I can't register it.. I don't have the money to buy any parts or pay engineering otherwise I would! If noone takes it whole I will spend a few days taking it apart and part it out. If anyone wants to make an offer PM me or call 0410 532 548.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...