Jump to content
SAU Community

Stripped Wheel Studs On My R33

Bunta

By Bunta,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

Bunta Grand Master

Bunta

Posted
Posted

Fate has forced my hand! The R32 just blew its turbo so R33 wheel studs need to be fixed so I can drive it while the R32 gets its upgrades done!

Does anyone have any useful advice for me on how to do this?? Or does anyone want to come and help me do it on Saturday afternoon? Rewards of course will be offered for the helpers :D Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125048-stripped-wheel-studs-on-my-r33/
Share on other sites
AzzurrA Grand Master

AzzurrA

Posted
Posted

1. Take wheel off

2. Take caliper off disc

3. take disc off

4. get big hammer

5. belt old stud out

6. slide new stud in from behind

7. use old stripped stud as a punch to push new stud in (or alternatively get a rattle gun and do up a wheel nut onto the new stud to pull it through)

8. put disc back on

9. put caliper back on disc

10. put wheel back on

11. ????

12. Profit

Eug Grand Master

Eug

Posted
Posted
Where do I buy the new studs from??

Jason there is alcoholic rewards if you come help me :D

try repco they will normally have a range of wheel studs...

i got mine from option1garage over @ hamilton (although i have slightly longer ones 70mm i think)

make sure you get ones with the correct spline, as you'll have a mission of a time bashing them in, or drilling bigger holes etc...

the rattle gun method Azzura mentioned is good, just make sure you dont over tighten and end up ruining your thread as a fair bit of heat is generated. a rubber mallet is also handy - dont know when i used it but i know i used it heaps. after you've replaced the studs remember to periodically tighten up your bolt nuts as they settle in.

not a big job, just time consuming ;)

good luck

Primordial Grand Master

Primordial

Posted
Posted
try repco they will normally have a range of wheel studs...

i got mine from option1garage over @ hamilton (although i have slightly longer ones 70mm i think)

make sure you get ones with the correct spline, as you'll have a mission of a time bashing them in, or drilling bigger holes etc...

the rattle gun method Azzura mentioned is good, just make sure you dont over tighten and end up ruining your thread as a fair bit of heat is generated. a rubber mallet is also handy - dont know when i used it but i know i used it heaps. after you've replaced the studs remember to periodically tighten up your bolt nuts as they settle in.

not a big job, just time consuming ;)

good luck

Yeah don't try to put a front stud in the rear hub, and waste two hours of your time before you realise that they are actually different!!! Like I did at the track day!! :D

Studs are only about $5 each... Once you know how its pretty easy - like anything I guess.

You dont HAVE to use a rattle gun, but it makes it much easier.. You will have to pack the wheels stud up with washers or a big nut so that you can wind the nut onto the stud without running out of thread on the nut. I hope that makes sense?

AzzurrA Grand Master

AzzurrA

Posted
Posted

i'm happy to help out Andy.

I got my wheel stud from Nissan, as they are the same as R32 GTR ones.

was cheap as chips... think it was like $7 or something

don't know if they'd have R33 ones though, or if they're the same etc (though one would assume they would be?)

impact_blue Grand Master

impact_blue

Posted
Posted
Yeah don't try to put a front stud in the rear hub, and waste two hours of your time before you realise that they are actually different!!! Like I did at the track day!! :D

Oh dears! I was wondering what you were gonna do! I felt so bad for ya too, you were having an awesome run!

Bunta Grand Master

Bunta

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hey Andy,

You got my number, gimmie a call if you need a hand. I am but 5 mins from your house.

Thanks mate ;)

Yeah don't try to put a front stud in the rear hub, and waste two hours of your time before you realise that they are actually different!!! Like I did at the track day!! :D

Studs are only about $5 each... Once you know how its pretty easy - like anything I guess.

You dont HAVE to use a rattle gun, but it makes it much easier.. You will have to pack the wheels stud up with washers or a big nut so that you can wind the nut onto the stud without running out of thread on the nut. I hope that makes sense?

I should have watched you fix that!! By the way....Watching your car on the track got my mouth watering, gave me a preview of my engines future :)

i'm happy to help out Andy.

I got my wheel stud from Nissan, as they are the same as R32 GTR ones.

was cheap as chips... think it was like $7 or something

don't know if they'd have R33 ones though, or if they're the same etc (though one would assume they would be?)

Thanks mate! ill give you a call later in the week??

Primordial Grand Master

Primordial

Posted
Posted
I should have watched you fix that!! By the way....Watching your car on the track got my mouth watering, gave me a preview of my engines future :D

Hehe yeah, if only you were psychic and knew you were going to need to know how to do it! ;)

I can promise that you wont be disappointed with the turbo! :)

Bunta Grand Master

Bunta

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hehe yeah, if only you were psychic and knew you were going to need to know how to do it! :D

I can promise that you wont be disappointed with the turbo! ;)

I knew at the time that it needed doing...I just didnt know that is what you were up too!!!!

we can have "comparisons" at EC in October Woooooot

WiZardOz Collaborator

WiZardOz

Posted
Posted

if you need to know details of the studs that are required check out the www.niceproducts.com.au website - all the info you need is there

I am having mine replaced, but the biggest problem has been finding wheel nuts to suit my mags ..

A workshop told me it's only a 20 minute job to preplace all studs to both rear wheels .. sounds like the easy option to me

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 VQ25DET starter motor

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Duncan
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Duncan
      Coolant leak?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...