Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am in the middle of my upgrade from standard twins to a Garret To4z. (Rb26)

At the moment i am waiting on a few parts like my Exhaust Manifold (6boost) Apexi PFC (greDDy) etc ...

As i live in a bit rural setting, every now and then i get a bit stuck with the certain systems i have never attempted.

My question is How have some of you adapted the oil and water lines to the single turbo application . Any Pic's or links would be fantastic!

I have tried to do a bit of searching about this but keep getting wrong, similar or off track in the threads.

Also i have read that the oil line to turbo needs restricting because it can blow oil past the seals... If so how would i go about getting the right restriction..

All else we think we have covered!!!

thanks ish!

Edited by ishh
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125212-ideas-on-lines-for-to4z/
Share on other sites

Hi,

It's pretty simple, near as I can tell (I am in the process of doing this right now and it's not finished yet). You

can buy all the relevant fittings from Pirtek (they will either use Speedflow or Motorsport Connections to get

the banjos they don't have).

WATER:

There's a water line going around the back of the motor that tees off to the two stock turbos in a double banjo fitting -

I'm replacing the entire line as the fittings at the back are in the way of my exhaust + gate.

Tee off this to one side of the water feed on the turbo.

There's another two water lines that go to a double banjo on the block - I've replaced this with a single banjo for the other

side of the water feed on the turbo.

I'm not sure which of the water lines are high pressure/low pressure, but I don't think it matters. Put one to one

side and the other to the other.

OIL:

I'm _told_ that the relevant restrictor is already part of the Garrett T04Z. There is certainly no mention in the

documentation of installing further restriction.

There is a single oil double-banjo about halfway up the block that you need to replace with a single banjo fitting.

This banjo is (I believe!) 1.25mm pitch and 10mm - an odd fitting if you want a -3 outlet - I have to use an adaptor.

Use this as your oil feed.

There are 2 oil returns at the bottom of the block; block off the rearmost one with a plate/gasket goo (carefully!)

and use the front one as your oil return. The T04Z comes with a gasket for this but without the fitting - I am

going to make a fitting from a pipe and some plate as I haven't been able to find one.

Make sure you crank the motor without the spark enabled until you get oil coming out the feed line - _then_ bolt

it to the turbo, then crank a few more times before enabling spark.

You will need to get custom lines made up in the diameters and lengths of your choice; I'm using -3 in teflon/braid

high-temp hose for both oil and water. Hopefully this will be sufficient. Or buy a kit with the oil/water lines included -

I don't know whether they include banjos and hollow bolts though.

I'll add some pics to this when I dummy up the bits.

Regards,

Saliya

Hi,

It's pretty simple, near as I can tell (I am in the process of doing this right now and it's not finished yet). You

can buy all the relevant fittings from Pirtek (they will either use Speedflow or Motorsport Connections to get

the banjos they don't have).

WATER:

There's a water line going around the back of the motor that tees off to the two stock turbos in a double banjo fitting -

I'm replacing the entire line as the fittings at the back are in the way of my exhaust + gate.

Tee off this to one side of the water feed on the turbo.

There's another two water lines that go to a double banjo on the block - I've replaced this with a single banjo for the other

side of the water feed on the turbo.

I'm not sure which of the water lines are high pressure/low pressure, but I don't think it matters. Put one to one

side and the other to the other.

OIL:

I'm _told_ that the relevant restrictor is already part of the Garrett T04Z. There is certainly no mention in the

documentation of installing further restriction.

There is a single oil double-banjo about halfway up the block that you need to replace with a single banjo fitting.

This banjo is (I believe!) 1.25mm pitch and 10mm - an odd fitting if you want a -3 outlet - I have to use an adaptor.

Use this as your oil feed.

There are 2 oil returns at the bottom of the block; block off the rearmost one with a plate/gasket goo (carefully!)

and use the front one as your oil return. The T04Z comes with a gasket for this but without the fitting - I am

going to make a fitting from a pipe and some plate as I haven't been able to find one.

Make sure you crank the motor without the spark enabled until you get oil coming out the feed line - _then_ bolt

it to the turbo, then crank a few more times before enabling spark.

You will need to get custom lines made up in the diameters and lengths of your choice; I'm using -3 in teflon/braid

high-temp hose for both oil and water. Hopefully this will be sufficient. Or buy a kit with the oil/water lines included -

I don't know whether they include banjos and hollow bolts though.

I'll add some pics to this when I dummy up the bits.

Regards,

Saliya

great info mate

how much should one expect to spend?

i think -3 is way too small for the water lines, i always use -8 or -10. If your prepared to do the work yourself, you can always order all the parts from motorsport connections in sydney, They have an online catalogue, The parts will probably came top around $200-250

i think -3 is way too small for the water lines, i always use -8 or -10. If your prepared to do the work yourself, you can always order all the parts from motorsport connections in sydney, They have an online catalogue, The parts will probably came top around $200-250

Hey,

you might be right; I'm just going on recommendations from my friendly Pirtek guy. Will look closer when we actually

go to make the hoses and post photos (should not be too long) and your advice is appreciated...

Regards,

Saliya

-8 for water lines is what i used and was reccomended, definately not -3!!!

oil feed is much smaller at around -4 or 5 i think from memory

oil drain is huge at around 3/4 inch pipe or something stupid >_<

restrictor is needed for hks t04z but im 99% sure all garrett turbos have them built in. (from what ive been told anyway)

Yeah, oil drain is huge. If you look @ the factory setup for the GTS-R like my car was (even with the RB25) it had massive drain for the t04e which bolted onto GT30 actuall, direct swap.

Its what i'd be using similar as Cubes said :D

Garrett turbos, the ones that ive seen (GT30 series)... all carry an internal restrictor on the cartidge itself. 0.8mm if i recall correctly.

I am unsure of a HKS model as i have not seen on in pieces.

As your goin Garrett, just check with the supplier... i havent seen a T04z apart... so i cant say 100% that there is an internal restrictor on the cart itself so it would pay to find that point out, unless someone else knows?

Make sure you use teflon lined hose for oil feed, -4 is ample. -6 line is what we use for water and -12 for oil return. Motorsport connections can supply all fittings. will cost around $300. will be able to see if cartridge is fitted with restricter as oil feed hole is phisically smaller.

Yeah, oil drain is huge. If you look @ the factory setup for the GTS-R like my car was (even with the RB25) it had massive drain for the t04e which bolted onto GT30 actuall, direct swap.

Its what i'd be using similar as Cubes said :)

Garrett turbos, the ones that ive seen (GT30 series)... all carry an internal restrictor on the cartidge itself. 0.8mm if i recall correctly.

I am unsure of a HKS model as i have not seen on in pieces.

As your goin Garrett, just check with the supplier... i havent seen a T04z apart... so i cant say 100% that there is an internal restrictor on the cart itself so it would pay to find that point out, unless someone else knows?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh ok that makes so much sense. Thanks for clearing it up!
    • And these modern "environmentally friendly" EV vehicles also run on the same smoke! When the engine, wiring, or batteries let it escape it also stops running!
    • Yeah - I found the same information too.. 30% open is like 85% of flow etc. So it's probably going to be minor if not completely imperceptible. I also have a larger pod filter here, will swap that on and see if there's any difference. The hardest part is finding a place to uh, test this. It's quite noticable just how much having ducting to the otherwise completely open pod cools the intake temps down. It's better boxed, or shielded but driving for 30 seconds really makes it plummet to near ambient temperatures. I recall in the past when I was a RB land and had a nice flowing airbox -  - Then I took the lid off and put a pod there, and gained 9 psi of boost and about 60kw from the restriction I didn't know I had - with the controller at same duty cycle. However finding people using over the radiator intakes having similar KPA drops at WOT on built setups makes me think there restriction could be the exhaust or potentially the headers. Either way though, there's no real estate to play with and nothing that can realistically be done about it. The original dyno plot without the airbox, and the larger pod had a better curve. It was later I added the ducting and airbox, and a smaller pod to make it fit in there...
    • That's not completely truthful now is it? Any flex fuelled factory cars also had the option to run on steam.
    • Yeah so I guess your mechanic would know turnaround better than me....but I would have thought you had access to same day or overnight rack rebuilds there....any big city here in Australia has that service.   There are a couple of o-rings and seals involved, I guess the risk is the part is specific not general. Other option is if you can have it on stands in your garage for a while, steering rack removal is pretty simple (2 mounting brackets, 2 ball joints (separate by undoing the nut to the top of the threads, put a pry bar between the steering arm and control arm to put pressure on it then medium force on the side of the ball joint or top of the nut with a hammer to break it free) and then the trickiest bit is the splines to the steering rack (not too bad to undo, one nut then it slides out, but mark it first so you can reassemble it straight)
×
×
  • Create New...