Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

:D Correct me if im wrong but the pdf says weight 1201kg and over max allowable rim size is 2" above standard. (For cars post 1973)

Arent Skylines above 1201kg? :P

you might be right... i think it was either 1 or 2"... regardless, 19 is still a defect on a R32 and R33 as they come stock 16", but not R34

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125446-just-a-question/#findComment-2320473
Share on other sites

check your tyre placard. it'll tell you the car's allowable rim sizes. on the r33's it says that 18's are ok with a certain width tyre. have a look at yours and it'll tell you. its usually on the inside of your door.

just a word of warning, when i had my 19s it cos me $290 EACH tyre for brand new ones. my mate owns a tyre place and he kept every 2nd hand 19" tyre he got in just for me which cost around $80 a pair. these prices are all mates rates too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125446-just-a-question/#findComment-2320523
Share on other sites

I thought its 1" or 2" is allowable for rims above standard?

In width, yes its 1". But he's not asking if he can put 19" wide rims on the car.

As for diameter / circumference, this is what the VSI06 you linked to (which I assume you read before linking to it) has to say:

The outside diameter of the wheel and tyre combination must be no more than 15mm over the largest diameter wheel and tyre combination specified for the vehicle and not more than 15mm below the smallest diameter wheel and tyre combination specified for the vehicle.

Correct me if my interpretation is wrong, but when the RTA says that the diameter measured is the "wheel and tyre combination", they're not just looking at the increase in rim height to determine its legality.

As long as he can find a tyre with a low enough profile to fall within that 15mm leeway, he could run any rim size he wants (until the rim itself has the same rolling diameter as the OEM tyre's rolling diameter, of course).

So he could get 19x7.5 rims (with the correct offset, of course) and 215/35 R19 tyres, and they'd still be legal in NSW.

He could even go to a 20x7.5" rim with a 225/30 tyre and it would still be legal.

Edited by scathing
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125446-just-a-question/#findComment-2320546
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...