Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im interested to find out who you have used to get your Stagea?

I have recently handed over a deposit for an importer to find me the Stagea I want.

After an unsuccessful bid recently, and looking at the J-spec website, im wondering whether Im using the right people.

For example, the car we bid for sold for 690,000Yen (higher than the budget set) My importer then went on to explain a car at that price would cost me $22,000 landed and complied! which I think is a little rich considering they only take a $1500 fee.

I have noticed that J-Spec offer similar priced cars (in Yen) landed for around $16-17k.

Considering J-Spec offer a $1000 fee, Im wondering where all those additional dollars are going...

Who on here has used J-Spec or any other importer that you would recomend?

Thanks for your help.

Ben.

Edited by bbenny
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125565-who-you-used-to-get-your-stagea/
Share on other sites

i am also using jspec here and so far so good mind you my baby is still sitting on the dock in japan but due to go on its cruise to sunny australia on the 28th this month :thumbsup: .i did start proceedings with a company in perth to find me a stagea but wasnt happy with what they were offering and was told a white one was hard to find but i switched to jspec and put a hold on mine straight away.i did get my deposit back from perth with no problems

i sued j spec and they are very knowledgeable. They dont srew you around. Go Jspec man. My car only took 1 mith to arrive though

1 Minth! (I think you mean month) Didn't you buy the car in April and it arrived last week?

Your thread

I make that 2 and a half MONTHS... Let's not get unrealistic here now, mine took a little over 3 months to arrive and it did end up costing more than the calculators show but not $6K more!

Luke

1 Minth! (I think you mean month) Didn't you buy the car in April and it arrived last week?

Your thread

I make that 2 and a half MONTHS... Let's not get unrealistic here now, mine took a little over 3 months to arrive and it did end up costing more than the calculators show but not $6K more!

Luke

[/q :dry: uote]

Soz my bad type the winr month i mean 2 mths. :D

;)

What sort of extra costs have you been hit with that were not listed?

I spoke to the guys I have been dealing with today, and it just seems too expensive! the whole point of buying a car in japan was to save money, the figures they are now gicing me after having payed my deposit are now much higher, so much so i would be better off just buying locally and being able to see and drive the car before laying out the cash...

What sort of extra costs have you been hit with that were not listed?

I spoke to the guys I have been dealing with today, and it just seems too expensive! the whole point of buying a car in japan was to save money, the figures they are now gicing me after having payed my deposit are now much higher, so much so i would be better off just buying locally and being able to see and drive the car before laying out the cash...

Actually the whole point of buying in Japan so you have access to vehicles you can't get here :P

Actually the whole point of buying in Japan so you have access to vehicles you can't get here :D

Yeah don't think you will save thousands by importing, it doesn't always work out that way...

My Extras were:

- Timing belt, other belts, timing belt idler pully $260

- Front indicators (as the car had none) $65 each

- Sourcing and shipping standard sized wheels around the country (still cheaper than buying the 18's that are on my car by a long shot!) ~$500

It is just the small things that are not picked up before the car gets to you, probably not always but you need to factor that in. If the figures these guys are giving you don't add up then I would move on, buying localy is great if you can do it and I would have if there was something in the same state at the right price for sale and I probably will next time so if that works for you then do it.

To get something that is cheap you need to be happy with higher kms really, if you are then importing could be pretty rewarding.

Anyway you are doing the right thing, and that is research!

Cheers

Luke

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • f**king around with the bro
    • Ludenham   44.2 tops day no issues  
    • Then today, I went to visit a man with an r33 hat Peter and Road and Race sorted the alignment. As it is being set up for general track/hillclimbs etc it has a heap of caster (7o), less camber than I am used to (1o front and 2o rear, as the caster looks after that in turns without the braking downsides), 3mm front toe out and 0 toe rear. Will see how that goes and track tyre wear to see if it does need more camber, but adjsustment is also limited with nismo arms and adjustable bushes at only 1 end. It does have a bent inner tie rod on the driver's side front but as it came up within spec I'll just leave that as is. So, that is getting close to my chapter of this story....could of tidy ups then a shakedown in early October before it finds a new home.
    • So, it went to Unigroup for a run in and tune on Friday, everything went (generally) well. In terms of fixes, the engine was good and there were no leaks. It needed plugs (I hadn't checked them because the coil pack cover was on a new engine and I couldn't imagine they weren't new.....but turns out the temporary plugs to just keep it sealed up were in there.....new plugs gapped to 0.8 and it was fine from there. Also, there was a little preload on the clutch slave which caused some slip. I haven't had the box off so I don't know what the clutch looks like; my guess it is brand new and the pedal had not been adjusted....backed that off a bit and it held fine. Last thing will have Dose crying....the idle especially when cold is a bit difficult between the cams, forward plenum, atmo blow off valve and an 80s air management system. It is fine when hot but a little uneven when cold, will see if I can sort or at least improve that one cold morning. Other than that, tuning went fine. It made 245 but was pulled back to 227 which 2 opportunities to improve in future. 1. The factory CAS is not great and was jumping around at high RPM, so Mark took 2 degrees out up top (that is why it stops making power and lost 20kw). Very safe this way and the extra power is available but will require a more modern ECU and better cam (or even better crank) sensor 2. The 2871 in factory housings is very big for a low mount, and the internal wastegate is too small, so it was creeping from mid range all the way to redline....the duty cycle on the boost controller is turned down a little for safety. That is much harder to fix, it would need a large external gate and that would require a whole bunch of other changes, so it will go as it is for now. It feels nice and healthy and safe, so should be good for about a billion laps like this.
    • what sort of caliper are they? If they are a slider and you gave everything a good clean, you might need to regrease the pins. My guess though is they will come good after some abuse as suggested above
×
×
  • Create New...