Jump to content
SAU Community

E80 Head Questions

noddle
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

This is from a couple of American books I have by Frank Honzowetz .

L24 with single 2 Bbl Carburettor 38mm intake 33mm exhaust valves .

L24 up to 7/73 42 and 33mm .

L24 after 8/76 42 and 35mm .

I'm told that the best L24 head in Australia was the one from the 1981 only build Skyline MR30 2.4E . I can't remember which casting number it has but someone in here will quote . Im opretty sure it used the larger 35mm exhaust valves and has closed heart shaped chambers like the 1600 SSS had .

If you can find one in good nick its the one to use . Basically most L heads need help in the exhaust side and the best available combustion chamber shape is a huge bonus .

Cheers A .

paulmac Community Regular

paulmac

Posted
Posted
This is from a couple of American books I have by Frank Honzowetz .

L24 with single 2 Bbl Carburettor 38mm intake 33mm exhaust valves .

L24 up to 7/73 42 and 33mm .

L24 after 8/76 42 and 35mm .

I'm told that the best L24 head in Australia was the one from the 1981 only build Skyline MR30 2.4E . I can't remember which casting number it has but someone in here will quote . Im opretty sure it used the larger 35mm exhaust valves and has closed heart shaped chambers like the 1600 SSS had .

If you can find one in good nick its the one to use . Basically most L heads need help in the exhaust side and the best available combustion chamber shape is a huge bonus .

Cheers A .

are you talking about the N47 head???

SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted
are you talking about the N47 head???

No, he's talking about the E88 head fitted to local spec R30 Skylines. The N47 is a round exhaust port, US spec head (shudder). The R30 type E88 has a 'small' combustion chamber similar to the early 240Z E31, but with 42mm inlet and 35mm exhaust valves. It's an easy matter to fit the bigger 44mm inlet valve used in L28 heads (eg N42) and it's a bolt-on compression increase for an L28 engine, even with dished pistons.

For the OP, what you have is an E30 head...there's no such thing as an L6 'E80' head. The E30 is fitted to stock, L24S (single carb) engines used in 240K and C210 Skyline. It uses very small valves and inlet ports, but has the one redeeming feature of a 'small' combustion chamber, similar to the E31 head. So it also gives a bolt-on CR increase for an L28, but is otherwise a good boat anchor. In the early days of Z performance builds when E31 heads were scarce and expensive (still are...), we used to port E30 heads and fit bigger valves, but it was a LOT of work.

noddle Rising Star

noddle

Posted
  • Author
Posted
No, he's talking about the E88 head fitted to local spec R30 Skylines. The N47 is a round exhaust port, US spec head (shudder). The R30 type E88 has a 'small' combustion chamber similar to the early 240Z E31, but with 42mm inlet and 35mm exhaust valves. It's an easy matter to fit the bigger 44mm inlet valve used in L28 heads (eg N42) and it's a bolt-on compression increase for an L28 engine, even with dished pistons.

For the OP, what you have is an E30 head...there's no such thing as an L6 'E80' head. The E30 is fitted to stock, L24S (single carb) engines used in 240K and C210 Skyline. It uses very small valves and inlet ports, but has the one redeeming feature of a 'small' combustion chamber, similar to the E31 head. So it also gives a bolt-on CR increase for an L28, but is otherwise a good boat anchor. In the early days of Z performance builds when E31 heads were scarce and expensive (still are...), we used to port E30 heads and fit bigger valves, but it was a LOT of work.

You are right, it is a "E30" Head, thats what you get when looking in the dark with a torch..

You mentioned a N42 head, (I have one of these, with the injector cut into the intake port, on an old tired L28) will this fit on my L24 and Is it worth putting on it if it does fit ?

post-13098-1153902353.jpg

SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted
so the n47 is a US spec head :happy: i got one on my car but its an aussie ti hatch, so its not meant to be there or is it?? Paul.

Other than yours, I've never seen or heard of one fitted to an Oz spec car. The N47 uses stainless steel liners in the exhaust ports designed to 'glow' and burn-off any un-burnt fuel. This was required to meet more stringent emission specs in the US.

SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted
Is it worth putting on it if it does fit ?

No...it will drop the CR on your L24 and performance (already not great) will suffer.....

If you want to improve performance with the L24, get a good E88 head from an R30 Skyline and bolt that on. With a cam (nothing wild) and upgraded fuel system (240Z carbs are a good option, but can be hard to find), plus extractors and a reasonable exhaust system, the car will be transformed. But at the end of the day, go L28 if you can as that's the ideal upgrade for these cars.

noddle Rising Star

noddle

Posted
  • Author
Posted
No...it will drop the CR on your L24 and performance (already not great) will suffer.....

If you want to improve performance with the L24, get a good E88 head from an R30 Skyline and bolt that on. With a cam (nothing wild) and upgraded fuel system (240Z carbs are a good option, but can be hard to find), plus extractors and a reasonable exhaust system, the car will be transformed. But at the end of the day, go L28 if you can as that's the ideal upgrade for these cars.

If I got my hands on a L24E (R30 engine ?) and put the Electronic Injection on a L28, would this be a better option than a straight L24E ?

I’m after a little more power but not wanting to reduce my fuel economy by to much.

  • 3 weeks later...
shane_cummings Contributor

shane_cummings

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I'm building an L28 at the moment. This website is the most informative and simple I've come across.

The cylinder head section gives comp ratios, combustion chamber cc's, valve sizes, describes ports for every L series head. A must read.

http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • dbm7
      BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      There are guys on Facebook under, Infiniti Owners Australia   https://www.facebook.com/share/g/1Z3RbPqx4k/?mibextid=wwXIfr What Whp are you after and I can help, and join this Q group in the states. https://www.facebook.com/share/g/19A59cN3JR/?mibextid=wwXIfr
×
×
  • Create New...