Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You want to get rid of body roll, dont go looking for getting coilovers. These coilovers with high spring rates as give u nothing but the shittest ride around. If you want to get rid of body roll, go for upgrading your sway bars.

I highly recommend SydneyKid's group buy for Bilstein Shocks, Whiteline accesories, or at least speak to him bout it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126129-tein/#findComment-2331128
Share on other sites

Well I got a price of $2500 supplied and fitted, alined etc for the 'aussie' spec teins from Fulcrum. That was the works in terms of the suspension gear its self, no camber or castor kits.

SKs set up came in a fair bit cheaper. In my case anyway. That and I feel I have a better quality product.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126129-tein/#findComment-2331748
Share on other sites

lookng 4 options any sugestionsn allredy have sway bars etc'

Well I got a price of $2500 supplied and fitted, alined etc for the 'aussie' spec teins from Fulcrum. That was the works in terms of the suspension gear its self, no camber or castor kits.

SKs set up came in a fair bit cheaper. In my case anyway. That and I feel I have a better quality product.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126129-tein/#findComment-2331844
Share on other sites

lookng 4 options any sugestionsn allredy have sway bars etc'

I did too. So sway bars werent included in that price. I wanted a proper fix as I had rebuilt jap coilovers to aussie road spec, and 3 of those failed. I didnt really want to replace the stuff again.

So after my own research and a long conversation (and a few shorter ones :P ) with SK I decided that for what I wanted the bilstiens were the best and most cost effective (not cheapest, but the service life would seem longer than jap coilovers) option. Reason for getting them through SK over anyone else is he is and will be the cheapest, unless you get lucky and find someone who has ordered the wrong shocks and is trying to flog them off cheap.

Id talk to SK, read the shock 101 thats sticked in this forum, ring say fulcrum and talk to them (they are a tein dealer and do have a 2 year warrenty or something). Then make your own then educated decision on which way to go.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126129-tein/#findComment-2331977
Share on other sites

Well my Bilsteians after about 5 or 6 years of faithful service are coming out. Last inpection about 24 months ago had them in perfect health.

I cant makeup my mind on another shock, they are all too much money to find im not happy with the buy, so in the next 4-6 weeks they will be coming out and be stripped down and rebuilt.

New higher rate springs and converted to fully height adjustable. Will report back on what the shock condition was before rebuild, im guessing they will are fine...

Still works out cheaper then even the basic bottom of the range adjustable coil overs available on the market.

Though if someone wants to save me the agro and sell me their new still in box HKS Hyper Max II for cheap then i will buy them ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126129-tein/#findComment-2332060
Share on other sites

Base adjustment? I take it as meaning that you can adjust the ride height of the car with an adjustable lwoer spring seat, the threaded bit.

At the end of the days, its all a matter of personal preference and what you do with your car. Some swear bv a certain brand, others dont care. Im more the dont care what brand it is...im just sensitive to the fact that overall im pretty happy with the Whiteline kit i h ave and dont want to spend thousands on something that wont make me go any quicker over 1 lap at the track...plus i seriously doubt that i would be able to actually go quicker because of better suspension.

Odds are what feels quicker to me is slower ;) So, thats me. You need to think about what you want from your car and what expense you are willing to pay.

The fact that your looking for a really good price on Teins suggests that you are motivated by budget like me, so best advice is go for a drive in a few other GTSts and see what you like the feel of.

If you just want a nicer handling car with good ride, then you cannot go past Whiteline Swaybars witha good alignment. Thats about the only thing i know for sure :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126129-tein/#findComment-2332343
Share on other sites

budget important but no be all end all

as always u dont want to pay too much for something when u can get it cheeper

i dont want to be looking at new suspension again 4 a long time so i want to get it right got a few mates with tein flex in there car and they sware by it so realy need to find some people in qld with some setups to compare

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126129-tein/#findComment-2332505
Share on other sites

ive had the tein h/a's for almost 4 years, they are firm ( roughly middle setting, so they can go alot harder or softer) some ppl find them too hard, some dont mind, im personally used to it, and i prefer hard suspension it makes me feel more in control of the car, i get 0 bodyroll and i have stock sway bars etc, just comes down to what u like, the flex or super street might be a better option which would have gotten but they werent out when i got mine and a bonus u can have the edfc hooked up to them as well, as with the H/A's u cant

ben...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126129-tein/#findComment-2351405
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...