Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I can swap a r32 box in about 2 hours thats on my own with the car on stands ive had abit of practice though. Ive done it about 6 times on my own cars.

The easiest way i found to get it back in is to lay under the car with your head under the sump with the gearbox beside you. lift the bell housing onto your chest so you can push it up with your arms then put your knees under the tail shaft end and push the whole box up and in, its easy to wiggle it about to line up in this position . Its a damn good arm workout too.

  • 1 month later...

Whatever you do don’t get a bunch of mates that aren’t mechanical 2 help u it results in serious pain and a quite hefty swelling when it falls of the jack onto your arm

So I know for next time is there an easy way to get the box off the jack afterwards

  • 4 weeks later...

best way to get it back in is with 2 people:-

Lay the box in about the right spot on the ground.

Get a small rope

Put the rope around the end of the gearbox. Get the helper to get in the car and pull the rope up. This will then lift the rear of the box up. You can then lift the box by the bell housing, and slide it right in. (might have to issue a few height adjustment commands to the helper 1st;)

to get the top bolt in and out easier use a really long extension a swivel joint and a rattle gun. just run the extension up along the top of the gearbox in the tunnel. You can try jacking the front of the engine a very small amount to lower the bolt a bit. DO THIS WITH CARE!!!! Otherwise you'll bend stuff, squash the stuff behind the engine bent various thing in the engine bay etc.

i changed my clutch, and put in thje OS GIKEN crossmission gearset when i had the engien pulled out, so i pulled the GB out to. DAMN, i dont want to do that ever again. at the job i have acces to a 2pole hoist, but at the time i was going to put the engine in we had a 12cyl, 11.3l haulpack engine hoisted on it, because the chain hoist couldnt lift the engine. so we did the job on the floor with 4 jack stands, that is putting the box in, and the engine. and i am not the smallest person i am 6ft 7in. the GTR box is fckin heavy, lifting with 2 persons we were able to put in in position, bolting it on was easy, use airtools :/

Another vote for the really long extention bar for those top two bolts. I actually used Duncans wobly ended extension bars to take it out then my long extension to put it back in. If you have the right angle your ratchet is about where the cat goes in a straight line.

The other thing that is handy is to get your chinese/australian mate to put the socket on the bolt for you with his little hands. :) (Thanks Ed)

Takes me about 500 hours to do anything.

The only thing I can really add to this thread is why are you undoing your tailshaft? And are you marking it when you do to make sure you put it back together the way it was before?

I just undid the 2 bolts holding the middle section of the tailshaft to the body then bent the 3 uni joints until the yoke part came out of the box. Easy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
    • What ECU are you running? This is probably the biggest question. If it's a PowerFC, I'd probably change the ECU and get something newer that will handle the injectors in a nicer way.
×
×
  • Create New...