Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil Temp Reading

silver gts-t
 Share

Recommended Posts

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

yeah silver I'd go as far to say the oil cooler is not working properly at all.

In the GTR running around 260kw atw my oil temp sits between 80 and 90 all the time, and certainly doesn't go up just cruising on the free way. The figures you have sound about normal for a car without any oil cooler.

You really need to cut out that splash gauge and preferably fit a louvered extraction vent or at least do a swiss cheese job on it. then build a little duct around it running up to the opening in your front bar. your welcome to have a look at mine if you need some inspiration.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

yeah well the way it's mounted now is practically in a sealed box so it's doing fark all cooling. except a small radiation effect. you may as well have installed it in the boot, or your neighbours car for all the cooling benefit you're getting! lol

jazza08 Mentor

jazza08

Posted
Posted

Just for reference the R33 gtst in the driveway sits at 79 degrees all day everyday regardless of stop/start or highway driving. It moves around 2-3 degrees when you give it some for a while...

Is the rb20 different?

Would of thought it'd be a good idea to get a thermostat and set the oil temp abit lower (say mid to low 70s) will make the engine run cooler and make abit more power too (or so i read in speed lol)

jazza08 Mentor

jazza08

Posted
Posted (edited)

Sorry my bad, thats water temp that sits just under 80 degrees not oil temp, oil temp is slightly higher as ud expect, sorry i got confused for a sec hehe

If you don't agree with running oil slightly cooler being an advantage thats your opinion, the magazine i read obviously feels differently, personally i don't care either way lol!

Edited by jazza08
Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

is there an actual benefit to having the oil at 50 degrees over 80 degrees ?? for example ..

if the cooler keeps it at 80 all the time, would you see any benefit with performance or longevity if it was at 50 degrees instead.

jazza08 Mentor

jazza08

Posted
Posted

I think 50 might be abit low, but by keeping core engine temps lower the parts operate at a lower temp and will last longer and perform better. Ill have a look later but what i saw was something along those lines! It wasnt a MAJOR drop in oil temp like 30 degrees like you mentioned tho dude, more like low-mid 70s i think!

Im sure someone with abit more knowledge could input on this if they had a read...

Busky2k Veteran

Busky2k

Posted
Posted

What I mean guys, is that going below a certian temperature point where there is no real advantage. Oil works best between 70-100C. Going too cool and the additives are not functioning in their optimum temp range and the oil viscosity is getting too thick.

I'm not saying oil coolers are no good, thats misinterpreting. It means using oil coolers to keep oil in this range for heavily modified cars. It is good to keep the oil temp as close to the coolant temp as possible. If there is major differential, then an oil cooler is needed.

And jazza08, what magazine/article are u referring to? If running cold oil was the bomb, then we might aswell run around with 30C thermostats too.Chasing more hp outta your motor by running cold oil certianly is the wrong way to go about things! If that were the case we'd put our cars on the dyno cold!

jazza08 Mentor

jazza08

Posted
Posted

Put your car on the dyno cold and expect things to blow up as they aren't at operating temp... ill go have a look abit later through some of the speed/hpi n any other mags i have to see where i read it coz i cant remember off the top of my head!

30 degree thermo's would obvioulsy create problems with the parts running too cold which they aren't suited for, however a few degree's lower i read wasnt such a bad thing. Who knows ill report back some findings i could be way off lol

jazza08 Mentor

jazza08

Posted
Posted

Ok this is what i was talking about, taken from Perth street mag, even though its a v8 the principles of a cooler motor/parts should apply to all engines.

"With new themostat in place, the engine typically runs 10 degrees cooler but still remains within the acceptable bounds for the standard PCM (above 70 degrees). The standard themo opens at 93deg and is fully open at 105deg. The new thermo starts to open at 80deg and is fully open by 87deg. As a result the enginer runs a higher ignition advance, normally between 5 to 7deg more than normal. At cruise rpm this additional timing is noticeable in the seat of the pants, giving snappier accel and throttle response. With the thermo fitted to a BA GT the peak power result at the wheels rose 3kW but the real story lies in the torque curve which was reaised across the majority of the rev range, with a peak gain of 100N at the wheels"

This is where i read this and got the idea from! Nismo offer a lower temp thermostat for skylines, obviously Nissan must think that its some sort of gain?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...