Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

Hey

I ended up getting the castrol vmx80 for my gearbox but i never bought any diff oil, i'm about to get some of that redline 75W90 for the diff, the only thing i'm not sure about is do i go for the synthetic oil or the shockproof oil? on there site the 75w90 is listed under synthetic only, not shockproof.

If i do go for shockproof, should i get the superlight - lightweight or Heavy.

thanks

Edited by Hulk1010
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126666-diff-oil/#findComment-2806116
Share on other sites

Redline 75W90 Gear Oil is supposedly good.

I use it in my diff it is very very good , always had problems around roundabouts and tight corners with the inner wheel locking up tried a few oils none were any good , redline fixed my problem

I thought shockproof isn`t an LSD oil only for the gearbox, i use the Blue shockproof in my gearbox its mad too

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126666-diff-oil/#findComment-2806488
Share on other sites

LightWeight ShockProof™

A unique gear oil designed to lubricate racing transmissions and transaxles which see serious loads (not recommended for most syncro-type transmissions). It has excellent low-temperature flow which allows easier shifting when cold. May be used to obtain maximum power transfer in racing differentials which do not see high temperatures. Similar to a 75W140 gear oil, but with the lower internal friction of an SAE 30 motor oil.

Used in two-stroke and four-stroke motocross transmissions (often mixed in equal parts with SuperLight ShockProof™ Gear Oil).

Used in most road-racing differentials with moderate power and dogring racing transaxles.

Taken off the redline website , funny it not recommended for most synro gearboxes works mad in mine

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126666-diff-oil/#findComment-2807902
Share on other sites

Yeah I'd make sure its suited to LSD diff's though..

You don't need "LSD" oil for a standard viscous diff. the viscous LSD unit is sealed from the rest of the diff enclosure and has its own fluid.

If you have a clutch type LSD (ie, you have a GTR, or your diff centre is aftermarket, or you have a skyline with A-LSD) then you need an "LSD" oil with friction modifiers in order for the clutch plates to work properly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126666-diff-oil/#findComment-2808155
Share on other sites

I went to repco, autobahn and super cheat auto today and none of them had any redline products that i could see, where can i buy this stuff besides online?

--Nevermind just found some contact locations on there site--

Edited by Hulk1010
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126666-diff-oil/#findComment-2820264
Share on other sites

instead of wasting your money on expensive redline which wont' do anything, because your diff is viscious (separate fluid for the viscous), I would honestly, use a castrol fluid.

Castrol lsx90. Cost ya about $30 for a 4L big bottle. You'll need 1.8L.

Castrol oils are a fairly good place to start from. At least it'll be correct.

Then, see how it feels, if it's good, then fine, it's good. From there, if you have a problem, then go mucking around with different fluids.

I have a mech diff, so I'm using motul oil, just so it changes the properties (won't do much to a viscous).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126666-diff-oil/#findComment-2820448
Share on other sites

You don't need "LSD" oil for a standard viscous diff. the viscous LSD unit is sealed from the rest of the diff enclosure and has its own fluid.

If you have a clutch type LSD (ie, you have a GTR, or your diff centre is aftermarket, or you have a skyline with A-LSD) then you need an "LSD" oil with friction modifiers in order for the clutch plates to work properly.

So you only need LSD oil for a mechanical LSD? And viscous LSD has a sealed in amount of its own special fluid you dont ever need to change??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126666-diff-oil/#findComment-2821002
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...