Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone i am selling my GTR as i got a raise and can now afford to get a lease. :ban: ...but also means i will have to sell my monster... :cheers:

The car has had serious money spent by myself and the previous owner. The majority of the work undertaken on the car in Japan was at the Tomei workshop and at Mercury Motorsport here in Queensland. Car has huge potential to push out more power.

The car has the following modifications;

Induction -

HKS T04S Single Turbo Conversion;

HKS stainless Steel Manifold;

HKS 48mm External Waste Gate;

HKS Air Filter;

HKS 3.5inch dump;

Custom 4 inch Titanium Intake;

Samco pipes;

100mm FMIC;

Chrome Turbo Heat shield;

Braded turbo lines (oil etc);

Engine -

Work carried out by Tomei Japan;

Tomei 262 step I cams;

Tomei Oil Pump;

Head Restrictors;

Baffled Sump;

Samco Radiator kit;

High Pressure Radiator cap;

Motal 8100 sythetic oil;

Full length carbon radiator guide

(soon to have bayside blue cam covers)

Exhaust -

External venting dump off wastegate;

Apexi Exhaust control Valve (in cabin adjustment);

HKS 3.5inch dump;

Titanium 3.5inch Cat back Exhaust;

Interior -

Momo Steering Wheel;

Pivot large shirft light;

Razo gearknob;

Greddy Electronic Oil temp gauge;

Greddy Electronic Water temp gauge;

Greddy Electronic Oil Pressure gauge;

Greddy Boost gauge;

6 point Roll Cage, bolt in;

Sound deadaning removed;

Exterior -

Shaved rear wing;

Weight reduction;

Trust front bar;

Carbon Fibre Front Bonnet

N1 Headlights

Blue/white Bulbs

Wheels/Brakes

Panasport G7 17inch mag wheels;

Race pads;

Braded lines;

Tomei master cylinder stopper;

Tomei AWD box;

Suspension -

Tein HA Pro Fully Adjustable coilovers (near new);

Replaced mounts & bushes;

Cusco 30mm Front Swayabar;

Cusco 30mm Rear Swayabar;

Cusco Front upper arms;

Cusco Front Adjustable castor rods;

Racing diffs front and rear

Other -

Flashpoint Dual Immobilizer alarm;

Power - Making 292.5 all wheel KW on 1bar of boost and 307 all wheel KW on 1.2 bar (17psi) of boost. car has been very well setup to be quick.

I am in Brisbane and after offers over $27,000 neg.

please contact me via PM, email at fsmout @ thincprojects.com or on 0404 077 220.

also check out; http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/&a...sh_id=582734956

Cheers,

Francisco

post-8436-1153268367.jpg

post-8436-1153268435.jpg

post-8436-1153268621.jpg

post-8436-1153268635.jpg

post-8436-1153713405.gif

Edited by fsmout
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126723-r32-gtr-for-sale/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry about the late reply...

Not sure about the fuel pump but its bigger than standard. its very loud but its in tank and i havent taken it out to check. Has got standard injectors...which i would say are highflowed for the power levels the car is producing.

The ECU is a Reytec (tomei computer) running a map flow sensor. Check out;

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...dex-reytec.html

It has had the AC removed, however the climate control unit has been relocated to the center consol and is controlable etc.

Skyrine-dave, PM replied,

Cheers,

Francisco

Michael Whelans car was a silver R32 GTR, not this one.

This one is still a weapon, i've been for a ride in it and it's extremely impressive.

Good luck with the sale, for that price i'm sure you'll find someone to buy it, it's a lot of car for that kinda $$ !

Cheers,

Tommo.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...