Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey does anyone know the conversions for like ...

AWKW's vs RWKW's

kws vs BHP

and what kinda figures give what kinda times in the Stags ie XXXkw = 12sec 1/4s etc (i know thats not an exact rule but an idea would be good)

Also ive heard a lot of peeps on here say there aiming for 200awkw's, sounds great but what does it really mean? obviously bigger the numbers more power but in comparison to other cars on the road what would a 200awkw stagea compare to an what kind of times would it be expected to do .

sorry for the hella newbie question but if you dont know u gotta ask

Cheers

Lee

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126797-can-anyone-give-conversions/
Share on other sites

Sk has the formula for power to weight ratio equating to terminal velocity and times over the 1/4.

I assuming you know ( but then maybe you dont) that

AWKW means - all wheel kilowatts

RWKW means - rear wheel kilowatts

BHP means - brake horsepower

The difference in the first two is just in the way the dyno measures your power output - ie in 4WD or 2WD.

BHP is generally the power measured at the crank - ie at the flywheel - this is the power figure you would read when you see a picture of an engine on a stand with a big fan for cooling and cherry red exhaust.

A lot of power is lost thru the transmission - upto 30%.

What this means for the humble stagea RB25, that is factory rated at 208 kw (at the flywheel), is that your dyno graph may only read 140kw at the wheels - the loss from 208 to 140 is from the transmission and tyre friction on the dyno rollers.

I've seen a large 4WD (Nissan Patrol) pick up 10kw on the dyno just by changing the tyres from large 4wd style tyres to smaller car tyres. I've also seen old V8 motors pull 20+ kw just from changing the engine oil to synthetic - the equation is simple - the more you reduce friction, the more power that is available to transmit to the road.

A 4WD stagea is going to suffer more power loss in the drivetrain then a 2WD. This is good thing about ATTESSA - it remains a 2WD only until the rears start to slip (I dont have ATTESSA - so someone can correct me if I'm wrong)

So the magic 200 AWKW you see touted on these forums means they are lifting the factory set 208kw to something closer to 300KW, which translates to 200AWKW on the dyno, at the wheels.

I'll leave space for someone else to answer you other questions.

ok... so does that mean the same kws atws in awds compare to rwds would produce less or more overall power or exactly the same

ie 200RWKW is more or less powerful than 200AWKW

eg a 200 rwkw skyline compared to a 200AWKW stagea which would quicker?

I assume that at the flywheel the stagea would have to produce a lot more than the skyline to produce the same WKWs but would that also produce a technically faster vehicle as all the wheels have the power to them or would it simply mean there would be no difference but due to weight the skyline would be quicker?

Sorry just trying to get some good solid basics

Sk has the formula for power to weight ratio equating to terminal velocity and times over the 1/4.

I assuming you know ( but then maybe you dont) that

AWKW means - all wheel kilowatts

RWKW means - rear wheel kilowatts

BHP means - brake horsepower

The difference in the first two is just in the way the dyno measures your power output - ie in 4WD or 2WD.

BHP is generally the power measured at the crank - ie at the flywheel - this is the power figure you would read when you see a picture of an engine on a stand with a big fan for cooling and cherry red exhaust.

A lot of power is lost thru the transmission - upto 30%.

What this means for the humble stagea RB25, that is factory rated at 208 kw (at the flywheel), is that your dyno graph may only read 140kw at the wheels - the loss from 208 to 140 is from the transmission and tyre friction on the dyno rollers.

I've seen a large 4WD (Nissan Patrol) pick up 10kw on the dyno just by changing the tyres from large 4wd style tyres to smaller car tyres. I've also seen old V8 motors pull 20+ kw just from changing the engine oil to synthetic - the equation is simple - the more you reduce friction, the more power that is available to transmit to the road.

A 4WD stagea is going to suffer more power loss in the drivetrain then a 2WD. This is good thing about ATTESSA - it remains a 2WD only until the rears start to slip (I dont have ATTESSA - so someone can correct me if I'm wrong)

So the magic 200 AWKW you see touted on these forums means they are lifting the factory set 208kw to something closer to 300KW, which translates to 200AWKW on the dyno, at the wheels.

I'll leave space for someone else to answer you other questions.

cheers mate u posted while i was posting mine and hadnt had a chance to see it .. some great info thanx!!

Sk has the formula for power to weight ratio equating to terminal velocity and times over the 1/4.

I assuming you know ( but then maybe you dont) that

AWKW means - all wheel kilowatts

RWKW means - rear wheel kilowatts

BHP means - brake horsepower

The difference in the first two is just in the way the dyno measures your power output - ie in 4WD or 2WD.

BHP is generally the power measured at the crank - ie at the flywheel - this is the power figure you would read when you see a picture of an engine on a stand with a big fan for cooling and cherry red exhaust.

A lot of power is lost thru the transmission - upto 30%.

What this means for the humble stagea RB25, that is factory rated at 208 kw (at the flywheel), is that your dyno graph may only read 140kw at the wheels - the loss from 208 to 140 is from the transmission and tyre friction on the dyno rollers.

I've seen a large 4WD (Nissan Patrol) pick up 10kw on the dyno just by changing the tyres from large 4wd style tyres to smaller car tyres. I've also seen old V8 motors pull 20+ kw just from changing the engine oil to synthetic - the equation is simple - the more you reduce friction, the more power that is available to transmit to the road.

A 4WD stagea is going to suffer more power loss in the drivetrain then a 2WD. This is good thing about ATTESSA - it remains a 2WD only until the rears start to slip (I dont have ATTESSA - so someone can correct me if I'm wrong)

So the magic 200 AWKW you see touted on these forums means they are lifting the factory set 208kw to something closer to 300KW, which translates to 200AWKW on the dyno, at the wheels.

I'll leave space for someone else to answer you other questions.

So does that means that if you put engine oil additive (slick 50s or nulon long term engine treatment), Put in diffs and transmission additive(nulon) include the tranfer case I will get increase in Hp? Cos im reducing friction from engine, gearbos diffs and tranfer case.

ok... so does that mean the same kws atws in awds compare to rwds would produce less or more overall power or exactly the same

ie 200RWKW is more or less powerful than 200AWKW

eg a 200 rwkw skyline compared to a 200AWKW stagea which would quicker?

I assume that at the flywheel the stagea would have to produce a lot more than the skyline to produce the same WKWs but would that also produce a technically faster vehicle as all the wheels have the power to them or would it simply mean there would be no difference but due to weight the skyline would be quicker?

Sorry just trying to get some good solid basics

Power is not everything when it comes to a fast car. You can have a 200rwkw skyline that hits 200 at 7 grand and below that is a pig (just assume a laggy turbo). Alternativly, you have a stagea that makes 200awkw from 2000-7000rpm and just pulls away.

for arguements sake, id say if the powerbands were identical a 200rwkw skyline would kill a 200awkw stagea 1 because of the weight and 2 because of the aero of the car. As far as i know, rwkw vs awkw doesnt matter as long as both cars have traction.

So does that means that if you put engine oil additive (slick 50s or nulon long term engine treatment), Put in diffs and transmission additive(nulon) include the tranfer case I will get increase in Hp? Cos im reducing friction from engine, gearbos diffs and tranfer case.

I'm not getting into that argument or this thread will start to look like it should be in the skyline forum.

Search for "carbibles" on the web and click on 'oil additives' for a good run down on what works and what is hype. At the end of the day a good oil is a good oil is a good oil. But a bad oil is a bad oil and thats what the V8 was running - a basic crude, straight out of the ground.

But hey, if you want to spend the dyno time and money comparing what additives do for your HP figures, then we will read with interest.

AC is right, at the end of the day power is not everything when it comes to making a car fast or enjoyable to drive. It's in the how and when you get that power to the ground.

I'm not getting into that argument or this thread will start to look like it should be in the skyline forum.

Search for "carbibles" on the web and click on 'oil additives' for a good run down on what works and what is hype. At the end of the day a good oil is a good oil is a good oil. But a bad oil is a bad oil and thats what the V8 was running - a basic crude, straight out of the ground.

But hey, if you want to spend the dyno time and money comparing what additives do for your HP figures, then we will read with interest.

AC is right, at the end of the day power is not everything when it comes to making a car fast or enjoyable to drive. It's in the how and when you get that power to the ground.

Yea true like the old perelli tyres slogan in the 90s." Power is nothign witout control" :)

This is a rough guide only, but:

1kW = 1.34hp

1hp = 0.743kW

Remember:

* when you're reading a new car mag (such as Wheels, Motor, etc.) or looking in a new car brochure, the quoted power figures are at the flywheel.

* when you're reading a performance/modification kind of magazine (HPI, Zoom, FF, etc.) them most of the figures stated are at the wheels, so count on *roughly* 20-30% lower figures compared to flywheel, and this accounts for frictional and other losses.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...