Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am trying to find out the production figures for the autech stagea (RS 260)

For 1997 & 1998 - how many maufactured each year.

anyone who has any info please add to thread.

thanks

This is production details not car specification

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126991-autech-rs-260-how-many-were-made/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 77
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I am trying to find out the production figures for the autech stagea (RS 260)

For 1997 & 1998 - how many maufactured each year.

anyone who has any info please add to thread.

thanks

This is production details not car specification

As far as i know Autech only madr 121 of the autechs as 260rs. And i know where is the last one 121 is!!! Its a custom made 260rs and its the only autech with sunroofs on and the engine is tined to 500hp. I suspect its tuned by Nismo called the rb26 Z2 version.

  • 3 weeks later...

MR GTR's is for sale right now, build number 121 (he claims only 121 built). i saw it on ebay 38k im sure someone wants it considering its freaking awesome, not sure if its for sale elsewhere, im sure he can talk it up better then i can.

here is the link hope it works if not, not too hard too find.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Autech-Stage...1QQcmdZViewItem

isnt that a bit dodgy that it has never been complied considering that you cant have the car in the country for longer than 1 year without it being complied if it was purchased for road use.

is there any way to use nissan fast to check how many vin no's were issued for the autech models?

it needs a personal import plate but i dont know if there are time limits on personal import plates like there is on sevs

but yeah i agree definately a hot car would like to know what is so special about it other than the supposed super dooper suspension and fmic and what does the interior look like

121 sounds abit low to me, ive seen plenty of different ones at jap auction sites for the past 12 months and theres atleast 10 or so in oz so surely 90% cant be for sale or in oz already? oh and browsing SWAT japan sites there seems to be plenty of them in the club as well.

Edited by CruiseLiner

whats to say its even a genuine 260rs

and jusding by how many series 1 260's that come up at auction I dont believe that there is only 121 maybe thats how many series 2 models were made but altogether for both hmm i think not

Ok

I have edit my last post

My only advise to anyone buying "any car" of a dealer or private, for you to do your background checks and be satisfied with what you are purchasing

I would like to openly apologise to anyone for my last post :D

:D naughty Darrin :rofl:

Well all I can say is that car is pretty much what I would be looking for if I was to ever replace my stagea ( Series II Black 260rs ) and for 38k is pretty good priced...

Haha does Mr GTR want to trade for my series II RS Four S :P

I should have an answer to the quantity question very soon as I have a contact who is in japan with MR Autech himself (obviously not his real name).

You mean the owner of Autech or the desinger for 260rs?

:D naughty Darrin :(

Well all I can say is that car is pretty much what I would be looking for if I was to ever replace my stagea ( Series II Black 260rs ) and for 38k is pretty good priced...

Haha does Mr GTR want to trade for my series II RS Four S :P

Caught you :) Knew you werent happy with a stocker for more than a few months :(

ill give you permission to buy it if its legit :rofl:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...