Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Basically if theres no street lights around i really struggle to see. All is dark. Almost mooshed a wombat the other day, but saw it just in time. My lights seem to be pointed down alot but idk if that makes sense, because when i put high beams on there aimed up nicely. So yeh, will i be able to just adjust my lights or will it be beams to, (off the top of my head im pretty sure its 1 unit and aiming beams up any higher = illegal) or will i have to grab some new globes for it? Or is it a sealed unit and will i have to buy new lenses to? Thx

Oh yeh its a r32 gts-t

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127344-r32-gts-t-crap-lights-from-stock/
Share on other sites

I thought mine were pretty crappy too, and I was told that 32 GTST headlights are pretty poor from factory. They also run the power through the switch in the dash, rather than the usual relay, which means more resistance and less voltage getting through to headlights.

You have the option of changing to a brighter (whiter) light, these are available at any of the car accessory stores, ie., autobarn, supercheap, repco etc... I just got standard replacement headlight bulbs (H1 - 55W) for my 32 and even they seemed brighter than the old ones I had in there, but there were options to go 30% brighter, and 50% brighter at the store aswell, for a little bit more money. Make sure you still get 55W globes as higher watts does not generally mean it's a brighter light, and will melt fuses and connections in a r32 (trust me I know from experience).

Still brighter than that you start to head into the 'blue tinge' type headlights which are probably brighter again, but a fair bit more expensive.

Fixxxer :)

blue headlights are harder to see with than yellow. don't go any blue'r than the narva arctic blue, or phillips blue vision (crystal and diamond vision bulbs aren't legal). also the blue vision are only as bright as a standard bulb, and crystal and diamond vision aren't as bright. i have driven a car that had diamond vision bulbs as high beam bulbs and they were absolutely crap. they were really hard to see with.

i use the blue vision and find them a bit hard to see with in the wet (r33). i'm going to put them as my highbeams and get some +50 for my low beam.

Ahh true, ive heard that the blue were illegal in some shades as well, so i probably wasnt going to steer that way. Was going to try find something white. That said i think ill skip on the Honda Accord Light install as well, that guy's crazy.

most really white lights are still illegal.

it goes yellow-white-blue in the colour range.

my mate has the crystal vision and they are a white light, but aren't that bright..... and aren't legal. the blue lights are only good in the fog as they shine through, rather than reflect (i saw a 4wd or fishing show one day where they were testing different spotties in the fog and the blue were much better).

the +50 are going to be the brightest. the other option you have is to rewire the system so it uses a relay instead of running the power through the switch. but that would be a pain of a job, and might not make a difference.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...