Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i dont think it's very wise to tell me to buy better tyres.

I think that was aimed at the starter of the post, not you matey!! :rofl:

(edit: yah, rereading it Im sure ebola was just adding to your thoughtful post! - lets face it, we'd hate to get a Mod offside now wouldnt we!)

My 2c: try to aim to MISS the rev limiter, I mean, whats the point????? Why hit the rev limiter all the time?

I did it once at higher-than-posted-speeds on my bike, almost threw me over the front (would have killed me) - no point to hitting the limiter whatsoever.

Edited by Tangles

ok, i will accept that I may be as simple as I look... sorry. :rofl: I took it as a response to my post, not an addition to. mmm time to take my brain meds.

edit: mmm i am so easy to wind up.

I think that was aimed at the starter of the post, not you matey!! :rofl:
thanks... I used to vague, but now....
I did it once at higher-than-posted-speeds on my bike, almost threw me over the front (would have killed me) - no point to hitting the limiter whatsoever.
got the rb20det up to about 10k once... didn't sound happy. On the plus side, my girlfriend has never missed 4th again..

Rev limiter are disigned to stop excessive engine rotation speeds. it is fairly safe but not too recommended to hit it. haveing a fuel cut rev limiter is gonna burn off a leaner mixture cause ur sparks are firing. leaner mix = hotter. rev limiters are a semi-safe margin of the engines capacity. my GTRs rev limiter is 9000rpm and i do the occasional rev limiter burnout.

but driving normally on the roads accelerating and u hit it. thats not right. ur driving a GTST which aint quick if u wer driving a GTR in RWD mode then maybe it will be a bit hard. You just got the car im sure and your new to it. take it easy. skylines already have a bad rep.

have you even driven a tuned GTR with 260kw atw? in rwd? in the wet? I can tell you it's pretty angry when it ramps onto boost.

any gtr in rwd full stop is crazy enough... let alone adding good power and/or wet weather to the equation lol! ohhhh, how i miss the good ol days.

(sorry, just wanted to add my 2c to your post :rofl:)

ok cool acouple of people have said the rev limiter for a rb25 is a 7000-7200,

My one starts popin at about 6700-6800 whats the go with that???

and all them people sayin im drivin round on the limiter get fu*kd only a noob would do that.

ive only got it the the limiter about 3 time since ive owned it. the first time was when i got it to see how it went, was tryin to take it to the redline 7gs..... started bouncing b4 that and i quickly changed gears.

In the wet the other day i wasnt holdin my foot on the floor and bouncing it all the way up the street it was a quick (pop,pop) and then i changed.

thanks for all the normall people that have helped me out and answer my question its there to save the engine and its not a good thing to hit it.

haveing a fuel cut rev limiter is gonna burn off a leaner mixture cause ur sparks are firing.

True.

I was under the impression that the rev limiter was a fuel and ignition cut (same as the power balance option in the ecu's active test mode)...

so the onlly increased risk to the engine over high rpm would be a balance change (no power stroke) - which would also decrease stress on the crank & c .

--or is this just r32? It seems stupid to use a fuel & ignition cut on an early model, and a fule cut only on a later model...

Mums old Vt Commodore used to love hitting the rev limiter, if it was in 1st, 2nd or plain old neutral, it loved it.... bouncy bouncy, pure ecotec power!

Sorry just thought id add that useless piece of info

Yes but god commodores do not like to rev.. they hit the limiter before 6k!

My friend has a lightly modded VT and just about redlines it every gear everywhere he goes, and he's never had any troubles at all with it.

Very surprising considering he changes the oil like every 20,000ks and its already done 190k. The ole' buicks are a lump, but they're a tough lump.

Rev Limiter on the R33 GTS-t is 6,800rpm..

My car infact beeps when I hit approx. > 5,500 RPM..

Personally I haven't heard that in about 3 months.. In a turbo car there isn't really a huge need to push it that far i think.. sure.. if you lose traction you might hit it.. but you can always back off..

I haven't driven an N/A R33, however I don't believe pusing it to the redline will really do the car any good.. I hope you are changing your oil every 5,000kms.. with decent oil.. And have had all the mechanics checked over if the car is only newish..

You don't want to do it round a corner and spin a bearing.. As someone said it's to stop excess rotational force.. there is a fine limit up the top end..

Learn to make the most of the torque range and as beer baron said it's going to make peak power/torque before the rev limiter..

NA Power when i first got my GTR it was sweet. it had a bit of the magical RON100+ in the tank. after i filled up with normal 98 it started to miss at 6000rpm. i changed the plugs (1.1) and still did. i then regapped the plugs to 0.75mm and its all good to 9k. have u regapped ur plugs?

RB's love limiter, especially RB20's. You can't deny how good they sound smashing rev limiter. I know of a certain daily driven '89 R32 GTS-t RB20DET pushing 300rwhp that hit rev limiter hard several times per day for about 2 years while a mate owned it.. and it's still alive. How about most drift cars, they sit on rev limiter half the time they are on the track! Haha :happy:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...